RONAY RUSHES IN Sit,—The illustration in Leslie Adrian's column last
week, headed 'Ronay Rushes In,' a drawing of an unscrupulous, not very perceptive figure lifting his foot, must have depicted Leslie Adrian himself in the undignified process of putting his foot into it.
He accuses me of being blasé about my native cooking and of having left out the 'Csarda."Where else,' he writes, 'can you eat roast sucking-pig?' Much is made of this small matter.
Had he read the book he criticises he would have found the 'Hungarian CstIrda,' as it correctly calls itself, on page 65 together with a recommendation of its sucking-pig and many other things besides. Indeed, by the simple method of reading the book he would have been enlightened as to where else to get roast sucking-pig.
Just how reliable is his judgment? He has not even noticed that the 'Saddle Room' which, he says, should not be among eating places, is in a separate chapter clearly headed as 'Dining and Dancing.' and that even without this nightclub the book still contains 402 eating places.
And if he had read the Introduction he would not have--without any foundation whatever—alleged that stars are awarded to my 'personal choice of eateries.' Britain's only starring system is the result of a meticu- lous investigation by a team which deserves better than to be judged with such shocking superficiality.
EGON RONAY
Queen's House. Leicester Square, WC2
[Leslie Adrian is on holiday abroad and has not Yet seen Mr. Ronay's, letter.—Editor, Spectator.]
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