27 FEBRUARY 1926, Page 22

We had imagined that wine-treading was a romantic affair

" This year the must shall foam Round the white feet of laughing girls"— but as regards port, at any rate, the vintage is pressed (according to the illustrations in Mr. Todd' s delightful book on Port, issued by Cape at 5s.) with wooden implements by peasants who look by no means exhilarated or romantic. Whatever our views on alcohol may be, this is a deeply interesting work, representing a vast amount of information compressed into a small space. We note with amazement, from Mr. Todd's graph of the port imports into England from 1678 to the present day, that except for a drop during the Peninsular War, the consumption has been increasing by leaps and bounds. We now import over a million pipes a year. How many glasses of wine per adult per annum does this represent ? We recommend. this little book on how to buy, serve, store and drink England's most popular wine, for if a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well.