27 JULY 1929, Page 19

" They ate no meat, nor drank anything but water,

and the common people go without shoes or stockings all the year round. I pitied their poverty, but observed the people were fresh and lusty and did not seem to be under any uneasiness about their way of living." Thus wrote an English visitor to Scotland in the 18th century, quoted by Mrs. McNeill in The Scots Kitchen (Blackie, 7s. 6d.). From this volume we may not only learn how to make haggis, but its history. and the history of all the other specialities of the land of cakes. " Mickle meat, mony maladies " and " Surfeits slay mair than swords " say the Scots, but they eat well, none the less. All their appetizing dishes are here set out, and drinks also, from barley-broth to Athole Brose. The average reader will turn first to the chapter on " 13annocks, Scones and Tea-bread " ; nor will he be disappointed, but there are all sorts of amusing things to be done with things like blood, and seaweed, which may be new to him, as well as little-known recipes for meat and fish. As to oatmeal, we are told once again the "only right way " to make porridge.