27 JUNE 1998, Page 50

THERE are three good British saints this week: John Fisher

and Thomas More last Monday — both murdered by Henry VIII as they refused to acknowledge him as the head of the Church — then dear St Ethel- dreda (also called St Audrey). She was a woman of noble birth, the daughter of King Anna of East Anglia. She was married twice but released from those tiresome ties by the death of her first husband, after which, having persuaded her second hus- band, that they should live together as brother and sister (no wonder with a father called Anna), he released her after 12 years. She founded a nunnery on the isle of Ely, gave up fine linen and hot water except at Easter, Pentecost and the Epiphany and died of plague in 679. She had a tumour on her neck when she died, but when her cof- fin was opened 16 years later it had gone. Thus St Etheldreda, together with St Blaise, became the patron saint of those suffering from throat and neck ailments.

Jaspistos's birthday is on Wednesday 24 June, Midsummer Day. He likes to have lobster and asparagus, probably with sauce aurore tinged with pink. May he have a lovely day. The great thing about turkey breast steaks is that they have little or no flavour but are cheap and tender. I had them the other day with Willie Landels who, with his magic touch and imagination, turned them into a most delicious supper dish.

Escalope of turkey with anchovies

Turkey breast steaks (as many as you need) home-made fine breadcrumbs plain flour beaten egg salt and freshly ground pepper butter and oil for sautéing fillets of anchovies Dijon mustard lemons

Slice the turkey breasts into three escalopes horizontally. Have ready one plate of well-seasoned flour, one of bread- crumbs and one of beaten egg. Coat the escalopes first with the flour, then the egg, and lastly press them into the breadcrumbs on both sides. Lay them on some grease- proof paper as you progress. Melt enough butter and a touch of olive oil in a good heavy frying pan. Place a cube of bread into the pan and, when it starts sizzling and turning brown, remove and sauté the escalopes for about four minutes each side until crisp and browned. If you are doing a large quantity in batches keep them warm in a low oven. When ready, serve immedi- ately, crisscrossed with two anchovy fillets, and with lemon wedges to squeeze over them. Eat with Dijon mustard and a spinach salad.

I had a splendid Sunday lunch in the gar- den of Mark Thompson, my controller at BBC 2: exquisite asparagus with green mayonnaise and barbecued leg of lamb, rosy as the dawn. His beautiful wife Jane produced these beguiling brownies to go with the perfect strawberries and thick whipped cream.

Coffee blend brownies 1 lb dark brown sugar 6 oz unsalted butter

2 tablespoons strong instant coffee powder 1 tablespoon hot water 2 eggs 1 tablespoon vanilla extract (not flavouring) 8 oz flour

2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt

5 oz chopped nuts (not salted) 6 oz plain chocolate, broken into bits

Heat the brown sugar and butter in a saucepan until the butter is melted. Add the coffee dissolved in the hot water, mix together and leave to cool. Preheat the oven to Gas 4, 350F, 175C. Butter an 11 x 8-inch baking tin. When the sugar mixture is cool, beat in the eggs and vanilla with an electric beater or in a mixer. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Mix well and stir into the mixture. Stir in the nuts and chocolate bits. Pour the lot into the baking tin and spread evenly. Bake until lightly browned, 25-30 minutes. Leave to cool completely, then cut into 20 two-inch squares. Store in an airtight receptacle. Suggested nuts for the brown- ies are pecans and walnuts, but if you have a nut allergy you could replace the nuts with raisins, currants, sultanas or what you will.

A quickie pudding from Nigel Slater's tiny little Penguin book, 30-Minute Suppers.

Baked bananas with passion fruit

4 ripe bananas, peeled 2 tablespoons runny honey a little lemon juice

juice of 1/2 an orange

6 passion fruits (ripe when severely wrinkled)

Wrap each banana in foil, leaving the top open. Drizzle the honey over them, then a squeeze of lemon and the orange juice. Cut the passion fruits in half and squeeze four halves over the bananas. Scrunch the foil together at the top to seal. Bake in a preheated oven at Gas 6, 400F, 200C, for 20 minutes until tender. Serve in their parcels on a plate with the remaining halves of passion fruit, which your guests should squeeze on their bananas as they open the packet. The scent will be enchanting.