27 MAY 1995, Page 58

Fab foreign food

I WENT TO a wonderful piano recital last week given in aid of the Thompson Trust which assists post-graduate students of the piano, violin and opera as well as sea voy- ages for the young and planting oak trees. Rather a jolly combination, I think. The angelic Peter Katin played Schumann, Schubert and Chopin beautifully and the event took place in the spacious flat of Mr and Mrs Indar Pasricha, the latter being a concert pianist herself. The recital was fol- lowed by an excellent Indian repast and an exotic Josceline Dimbleby ice-cream of orange and cardamon which was heavenly and couldn't have been more suitable, but the yoghurt sauce which accompanied the many dinner dishes was the comestible which really caught my fancy. This was made by Prem Chand who gave me that receipt for peas last December so I whee- dled this sauce out of him. It can be used with all forms of curry or just with rice and vegetables or cold meats and chicken.

Prem's yoghurt sauce

2 large (500 grams) tubs of Bio yoghurt 1 teaspoon of salt 2 large cloves of garlic, crushed to a purée 2 teaspoons of pulped fresh ginger 1 teaspoon of cumin powder

a pinch of chilli powder, to taste Put a small amount of the yoghurt in a bowl and mix in all the other ingredients. When thoroughly combined, add the rest of the yoghurt, mixing well. Adjust seasoning and pour into a serving dish that has a lid. Now for the topping: 3 cloves of garlic, halved lengthwise

4 whole dried red chillies

1/2 teaspoon of whole cumin seeds 2-3 tablespoons of corn oil Heat the oil in a small frying pan, add the chillies and garlic and cook until they are dark brown, but be careful not to burn them, then throw in the cumin seeds for a quick fry and pour the whole lot over the yoghurt but do not stir. Cover with the lid and leave to cool for a few hours, letting the flavours seep in. Serve at room temper- ature with what you will.

Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers have pro- duced their River Café Cook Book (Ebury Press, £25) full of their own dishes that are served there. A hefty, very expensive book but far cheaper than eating at the Cafe. It is first-class, easy to follow and well produced. I will give you a splendid dish I have had there. Ricotta al forno

Serves 6 18 oz of fresh ricotta cheese 2 handfuls of fresh basil 1 handful of fresh mint 1 handful of flat leaf parsley 4 fl. oz double cream 2 eggs sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated 12 black olives, stoned and chopped

This is a bright green ricotta soufflé with black olive crust. It can be made without the food processor. Preheat the oven to Gas 5, 375F, 190C. Using a little butter and some extra grated Parmesan, coat a 10 in. spring-release tin. Shake off the excess cheese. Put the herbs into the bowl of a food processor and put half of the ricotta and cream on the top. Blend until bright green. Add the rest of the ricotta and cream and, while blending, add the eggs one by one. Season with salt and pepper. Finally fold in the Parmesan. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and spread the olives over the top. Bake in the pre- heated oven for 20 minutes. The torte should rise and have a brown crust but be soft in the centre. Serve immediately.

The chocolate truffle cake, containing not one grain of flour, must be the answer to everyone's prayers for its simplicity and speed in concocting. A minute in the mouth, a month on the hips type of pudding.

Tartufo di cioccolata

11b of extra bitter chocolate

13/4 pints of double cream at room

temperature real cocoa powder

Line a 10 x 3-inch cake tin with cling film. Break the chocolate into little pieces and melt in a bowl set over a pan of just simmering water. It is essential that the water does not touch the bowl and the chocolate is not stirred. As soon as the chocolate becomes liquid, remove the bowl from the pan. Cool slightly but do not allow to set. Whisk the cream in a large bowl until it forms very soft peaks. Take a large spoonful of cream and quickly fold into the chocolate until there is no white visible, then immediately fold this into the cream. Stir to combine and pour into the tin. Chill for at least two hours before turning out onto a plate. Dust with cocoa powder.

Jennifer Paterson