AITON'S LANDS OF THE MESSIAH, MAHONE T, AND THE * POPE. *
THE author of these travels fairly meets at starting the "bilious" question, what more can the public want to hear about Egypt, Palestine, the East of Europe, and Italy P He as fairly answers it by saying, that he has "travelled further to the East, and tra- versed more interesting countries in one trip, than many single tourists have done " ; that different men view the same things with different eyes ; and that he Dr. Aiton handles prophecy and politics, as well as scenes, society, and travelling adventures. The author is a Scottish divine, of considerable power and parts ; and the traits of the preacher animate the book even when their formal characteristics are net visible. Dr. Aiton has a shrewd, vi- gorous mind, that has been habitually occupied on the characters of men and the appearances of things, as well as on the dogmas of theo- logy. He has acquired by long practice the power of presenting his observations in a close yet full and powerful style ex- haustively, not tediously. He is an experienced tourist, with the readiness of resource and the ready action which. travelling induces, and the patience it teaches when there is nothing to be done. He has the national habit of steady perseverance—" a stout heart to a stiff brae," and a free, kindly, rather jovial nature, which gets through difficulties and strange scenes better than priestly dignity and reserve. His clerical character furnished him with many subjects of observation, as well in men as in localities. It also induced a habit of bringing together the Bible texts relating to the place, with remarks upon them especially in connexion with prophecy. These as regards length are the most digressive parts of the book; but they are so much a part and parcel of the author, that they could scarcely have been dispensed with. The habit of historical retrospection is less appropriate, but it is bond fide, and displays what is indeed the prominent feature of the book, the strong individual character of the writer which pervades it. This strength of character imparts strength of delineation; and as Dr. Aiton is a plain man, who speaks of things as he finds them, the reader obtains a good idea of what has to be gone through in Egypt and Syria. The ascent of the Pyramids is evidently no joke. Though youthful and animal spirits may laugh it off, the Doctor found it one of the twelve labours. The Desert wind or simoom, though under two other names, found him out; and in a descent of the Nile to its month, and a subsequent voyage to Jaffa in a native craft, he encountered so many of the plagues of Egypt that it lent some countenance to the infidel theory he rather wrath- fully mentions—that the miracles of Moses were merely an exagge- ration of the normal condition of the country. His van' ride across the Desert to Suez, whither he went to carry his son and daughter on their route to India, had none of the ease which has been said to characterize that journey. The manly manner in which he traversed Palestine might account for some of his diffi- • The Lands of the Messiah, Alahomet, and the Pope : as visited in 1851. By John Alton, D.D., Minister of Dolphinton. Published by Fullarton and Co.
culties ; but a fiery atmosphere will penetrate the tent of the Sybarite in spite of attendants, and during the whole of his trip to the Dead Sea and the Jordan Dr. Alton suffered grievously, while at Jericho he experienced the origin of the refinement which substi- tutes "go to Jericho" for another place.
"From its depression so far below the sea, and the reflection of the sun's rays from the surrounding mountains, Jericho is said to be one of the hottest places in the known world : and verily, from what I suffered this day, I am ready to testify the fact so far as my personal experience goes."
At Jericho, the Sheik presented himself to the party in official costume ; or rather, he sent for his costume, and put it on in their presence. Its pattern gives Dr. Aiton the opportunity of suggest- ing a judicious commentary on the case of Joseph. "Soon after his appearance some one brought him an upper garment in colours not unlike one of our Highland tartans - and this he seemed to as- sume with considerable complacency. It is milled the Abe,' and is worn by the better sort in authority., and is striped vertically black, white, yellow, and red, according to taste. He had also a broad kerchief striped in the same way, and having the sides hanging down with knotted strings appended to them, serving by their motion to keep off the flies, which are excessively troublesome in this Tropical climate. This dress brought to my recollection the history of Joseph and his brethren, and seemed to intimate to my mind, that the incident of Joseph being clothed with a coat of many colours, which is mentioned as having excited the rancour of his brethren, indicated something more than that the stripling should obtain a distinction in dress over them. It implied that they were all to be deprived of their birthright, and thus their younger brother was to be made sheik over the family. If this inter- pretation be correct, it helps to account better for the revenge which they attempted to take on their father's favourite. And the very name by which this upper garment is called seems to put thismatter beyond a doubt. 'Able does not mean camaline or cloak, but father, indicating authority, as a baton or mace does."
Dr. Alton traversed the Holy Land in what is perhaps the best mood of mind—a disposition to take the localities upon the author- ity of tradition, disregarding superstitious additions. This feeling gives a greater unction to the traveller's visit to memorable places. This is his account of the olive-trees in the garden.
"Turning the Northern corner, with the face Eastward, I came to the door of the garden, which I found locked. But I had procured a Turkish permit, and had been told the hour at which I would be received ; and thus although nobody answered my first call at the door, I knocked loud and long, when at last a little bandy-legged bronzed sinewy Arab opened the door from within, rubbing his eyes so as to convince me that he had been sound asleep. But before taking me into the garden, I was shown the spot where Peter, James, and John, were said to have tarried, and to have fallen asleep, while Jesus went from them about a stone's cast to pray. It is exactly op- posite the door, and upward a little on the slope, and it presents a small flat of stone raised a little from the rest of the rock, apparently of not much more extent than would admit of three or four men sitting or lying in the way in which they are said to have been. "The principal feature in the garden was eight olive trees, gnarled and time-worn, probably the most aged, and undoubtedly the most venerable in the whole world. Their large trunks much decayed and small tops of foliage still survive the lapse probably of two thousand years or more. Around the bottom of these trees, on the surface of the ground, heaps of dry stones r have been built up. And certainly when I looked at the aged stocks in all the different stages of hardy decrepitude, I felt somewhat apprehensive that their life would ere long become extinct. But I noticed, and the fact was ex- plained to me, that plenty of young suckers were sprouting from the base ; and it is said, in proportion as the vigour of the parent ceases this offspring grows with the more rapidity, indicating that the roots never decay. More- over, when the young shoots acquire a certain strength and stature, one of them seems to take the lead and the rest begin to fade, so that this one in time becomes the sole representative of its parent. And thus there is a renewal of these trees as often as required, and probably every two or three hundred years or more. And in this way it is easy to conceive that these olives grow still where they did in the time of our Saviour • and also, that if they had ever been cut down, as has been alleged, by Taus at the siege of Jerusalem, they would live still, and their boughs and blossoms would mark the spot anew. It is said that the enclosure of the garden has been enlarged about one-third, so as to contain about the third of an English acre. Besides the eight aged olives it is now planted with three young cypresses, many hollyhocks, roses, wallflowers, and some rosemary.
The present state and future prospects of the Jews spiritual as well as temporal, are frequently discussed. Dr. Afton greatly prefers the Jews of Palestine and Eastern Europe, as they are generally religious, whereas the German and French Jews are in- fidel and avaricious. Notwithstanding religion, however, the Jew, even at head-quarters, retains his love of a bargain.
"In going to visit a respectable Jew in Jerusalem, it is common to pass over a ruined foreground, and up an awkward outside stair, constructed of rough unpolished stones that totter under the feet. But the access improves as you ascend, and at the top it has a respectable appearance, and ends in an agree- able platform in front of the house. The court is overshadowed by a vine- covered trellis. On entering the house itself it is found to be clean and well furnished and lighted. Sofas or low divans stand around the walls. They de soft, and covered with Persian carpets, and look even elegant ; but no- body can sit long on one of them without getting a start at the sight of some little vermin. The people are hospitable, and happy to receive you. The old Jew leads you in very politely, and introduces you to his wife and daugh- ters, who are ordered to furnish pipes and coffee, and water and bread. You admire their faces and forms, their easy and elegant gait, and their address Surprises you. They chat and laugh with great vivacity of manners, and anon a perfect footing of equality. They speak very readily, and give their opinion with confidence, when even that of a wife controverts her hus- band. Many of these daughters of Judah are remarkable for their attrac- tions, beautiful and well-behaved, tall, fair, and blue-eyed, and around their forehead and cheeks are several roses, large ear-rings, and the vermilion blossom of the pomegranate, forming an exquisite pendant, reflecting its glow upon the dazzling whiteness of the skin. No interpreter is needed. The Jew speaks English easily, and the Jewesses talk Italian with elegance to the Nazarene ; while the pure Hebrew goes from one another very fluent- and it is easy to see who and what are the subjects of their remarks. be mother produces her child by this time, elegantly dressed, and adorned with jewels. You ask if the boy has been circumcised ; and the father looks very solemn, and answers in the affirmative. You ask what tribe his family belongs to. He answers with a sigh, that he cannot exactly tell, as, alas the tribes are now no longer separate and entire. His keen eye notices the sensation this simple but most important fact has excited in your mind, and something solemn is said again in Hebrew by the father to the family, and among one another. You hesitate once and again, but at length you break the ice, and speak of the prophecies, and their promised Messiah. Their eye kindles, their cheek flushes, their lips quiver, and their hand trembles. Yes, we expect him, and were certain that he was to appear last year. But he will come this year, and then the land will be our own again.' You press him gently to point out some prophecy on which his mind mainly rests as to the time. He remains long silent and sadt and at last comes out with the very candid admission, that the prophecies have failed so often as to time that he cannot mention one passage more than another. But the Messiah will come ; the God of Abraham has promised, and He is no liar.' But I ask, When will he come ?" This year,' he answers, and the land will be ours.' I speak of Jesus of Nazareth, and a moment the frown flashes over his face and frame, and he tells you sternly never to name the name gain within these walls, and he moves as if he were about to start to his feet. You change the subject and propose to purchase some trinket, and you are friends in a moment. Only shirty piastres,—shirty piastres.' You have had coffee and kindness, and how can you return it better than by making a small purchase ? And this was the main point—the number one towards which the whole mind of Ismel was constantly bending, and from which his entire inner man never was turned in all the conversation from beginning to end. Thus are they an acute, plausible, calculating, and kind-hearted peo- ple. Sure and sharper to their own worldly interests than either their razors or penknives. They have always an aim, and they are never idle. Their sympathy and benevolence for one another must be well sustained and directed. They have no compulsory poor-laws among themselves, nor are the poorer classes of Jews left to the tender mercies of the public at large' " Out again to the ruined court and over the heaps of rubbish with the perfect conviction on looking at your tenpeimy trinket that you have been regularly dewed by paying thirty piastres—t e. five times its value."
Of the Turk our traveller also speaks well ; attributing his virtues to his nature, his vices to his circumstances. He, how- ever, received, from some merchants of Constantinople a delicate and generous instance of kindness, which might somewhat bias his judgment. "At five o'clock, as I noticed one evening, a steamer was advertised to sail to the head of the Bosporus and to return to the Golden Horn early next morning ; and accordingly I took a passage, determined to see the cele- brated scenery of that locality from end to end. The families of most of the merchants and wealthy inhabitants were living up the Bosporus along it* shores for summer•quartent and sea-bathing. The steamer was aceordmgly much crowded with the husbands and other relatives on their way to spend the evening in the bosom of their family circle and to return to their usual occupations in the morning. I was the only Englishman on board, and it was gratifying to see the marked kind attention shown to me by everybody on every occasion. I was asked once and again to go to this marine villa and to that, to spend the evening with this gentleman and the other ; but, as my object was to sail as far up as the vessel would take me, I continued to decline all such civilities. My white turban and white linen dress were soiled and worn by the travelling, and my broad-brimmed straw hat was faded by the sun; and probably the Turks were under the impression that my money means had become scanty, and that a small supply to one who had been so long from home, and who had several thousand miles to travel before he could reach it, would be a seasonable and acceptable gratuity. Be that as it may, one of them mustered a large linen purse, and going round the deck, everybody put more or less into it with great heart and good-will. When this benevolent task had been accomplished, the highminded Turks began to be puzzled how they were to act towards me, that I might be in-' duced to accept of it in any way the least offensive to my feelings. Up, at last, two of them came to me with the bag in their hand, and begged me in broken English to accept of it. For a moment my feelings overpowered me so that I could not even speak; but at last, in the kindest manner I could, and being very grateful indeed for their benevolent consideration, I assured them that I had plenty of money to take me home in the enjoyment of every comfort, and that when at home I had as much as I could make a good use of. And to convince them of the fact, I pulled out my own bag of new- coined sovereigns, which I had got in the Mink of England the day before I sailed, which still made a respectable display notwithstanding that their numbers were somewhat diminished. The Turks then told me that some years ago, when the Russians threatened to bring down a squadron from the Black Sea, the English war-fleet came up from Malta and cruised off the mouth of the Hellespont, and were thus the meanie under God of preserving their capital from destruction ; and that therefore no :respectable English- man would ever be permitted to be in want while in Constantinople."
We pass over many places in Palestine in the Islands, and at Athens, to exhibit the present state of Bourbon rule, or rather re- gulation, at Naples : Dr. Aiton, luckily, was beyond their rule. This was his first reception. "In a minute after the well-known rattle of the chain-anchor had ceased, the curtain began to rise, and gradually to disclose the realities of the case. Forthwith a strong posse of police-officers jumped on board the steamer, to inspect the passengers. We were ranked on the deck for the purpose, and counted off like sheep ; then we were compared, as to age, face' and figure, with the descriptions given in our passports. The chief men of these police- officers next held a private conversation with one another, and with the cap- tain; then they gave instructions to the rest of the party, and went on shore, leaving the remainder as a guard, to prevent any of the passengers from quit- ting the ship. In two or three hours after this, a police-officer returned, and handed out to every one of the passengers, against whom there was no existing suspicion' a permit for landing. Down we all jumped into the many boats which were alongside of the ship, when the order was given to take us direct to the maritime police, which may be said almost to stand on a rock in the sea. }fere the passengers, on landing, were marched into a large room to be inspected a second time, and minutely examined as to where they had been where they meant to go, how long they were to remain in Naples, and on what errand they came to their country. Having also passed this ordeal without suspicion, I was called on to ticket my residence, and told that I would not be allowed to leave the office till I did so. The pas- sengers were next conducted to the customhouse ; where their luggage was. inspected in a very.cursory manner, but where their books and letters and papers were examined very strictly : here the authorities were somewhat puzzled with some of my slips of paper, which were written in the languages of Arabia' Turkey., and Greece. But at last I was relieved, and permitted to drive off to my hotel. Here again, on my arrival, I was ordered to register myself in every particular, as before ; and I was told that this description would forthwith be lodged in the general police-office for the city andante- nor of the kingdom. Thinking now that all this was surely more than enough, I ordered a bath, and was enjoying it, when I was startled by a. knock at the door by another policeman, sent to inquire still more minutely. This personage was told to wait till I found it convenient to put on my clothes when he would be received with all courtesy ; but he went off, rather surprised and indignant at my assurance. "Having issued out of the bath and bedroom, and sat down to breakfast, two police-officers, apparently of a higher mat, called, and inquired why I dismissed the former emissary in the daring way I had ventured to do. I stated the facts in vindication ; and when these did not seem to be satisfac- tory, I threatened to eat my breakfast in silence, unless they became re- markably civil. The landlord interfered, and the peace was maintained be- tween us. These officials were dismissed little more than half-satisfied. I sallied forth to see the lions ; when the hint was given to me by a waiter, that my footsteps would be traced by Government spies, called inspectors ; and every word I spoke would be ascertained, and reported at head-quarters. Havuig nothing to fear in all this, I walked out to the street, and there no- ticed that the cabman who had brought me from the customhouse to the hotel was already under examination as to all I had said and done since I landed, two hours before. When sauntering along the streets, a man accosted me in English, asked for news from home, and seemed desirous to point out anything worth seeing. But by and by he began to talk more generally ; then he complained of the constituted authorities, and seemed to be pumping up all my sentiments on these subjects. Here, had Inot been upon my guar and probably whether I was upon my guard or not, the conversation was taken down and reported at the head-quarters ; and it was easy to see that, in this way, simpletons would often be caught in the trap. When the hour for dining approached, I sat down at une table d'hine hien aervie '; when I found at my elbow an intelligent gentleman, who spoke English fluently. He was so remarkably obliging, that my suspicions were excited that he might have an object. Ile was very delicate and dexterous in trying to draw out my sentiments, but in three minutes I was convinced that he was another Government inspector : therefore when he made his observations, I was not contented merely with being silent, but took care to contradict him, lest he should turn the cat in the pan and report what he said as if it had been uttered by myself. And thue; from day to day, my steps were traced, and my every idle word recorded.'
We We will close with a passing hint to Mediterranean travellers in this travelling season : we think some have given a different opiniou as to the relative attractions of French and Austrian steamers.
"One word as to French steamers in the Levant and Mediterranean. They are one and all lazy dirty tubs, to be avoided as much as the yellow fever by every English gentleman. The accommodation is far inferior to that of theAustrian steamers; the filth and vermin are worse than those of Egypt. The passengers are actually starved. English travellers are insulted by Frenchmen, and rendered as uncomfortable as possible by the authorities on board. They are cheated on every hand, and a different rate of charge brought against them. They are scarcely permitted to walk the deck, far less to take any position so as to obtain a view for a minute or two' and as to a Frenchman lending an English voyager a spy-glass, or telling him the name of an island, he would rather spit in his face. But I asked them mi- nutely about Elba and its history when I passed it."
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