28 JUNE 1851, Page 15

SHORES A.ND ISLANDS OP THE MEDITERRANEAN. * THE author of these

volumes, the Reverend H. Christmas, was ordered relaxation and a warmer climate ; towards the close of last summer he started on a Southern tour, in company with " a dear and valued friend." The narrative opens with their arrival in a Spanish packet at Palma, the capital of Majorca. In the Balearic Islands the travellers remained some time, and then depart- ed for Barcelona, from which town they steamed to Marseilles and Genoa ; Mr. Christmas giving a bad account of the Spanish steam- ers. The Italian tour was limited to Leghorn, Pisa' Florence, Bo- logna, Padua, and Venice. From Trieste they sailed to Corfu; and subsequently visited, though not, it would seem, in the order of the narrative, Athens, Constantinople, Smyrna, and the other six "churches of Asia" mentioned in the Apocalypse. The subjects of these volumes are fresher in their conjunction than in themselves ; for we have lately had accounts of the Balearic Isles ; notices of the Seven Churches are hardly to be called rare ; while Northern Italy, the Ionian Isles, Athens, and Constanti- nople, are nearly exhausted. The work of Mr. Christmas is on the whole more interesting than might have been expected from its field. The portion devoted to Majorca especially is fresh, spirited, and informing. Subjects relating to the history and an- tiquities of the country, and derived from books instead of observ- ation, may be introduced ; but they are well and briefly handled, and as information, are necessary to the author's plan of a com- plete view of the islands. The sketches of the people are vivid, and done with the goodnatured experience of an old traveller ; the accounts of incidents or the adventures of the author are lively ; his profession gives him a subject of observation in the character of the clergy and the state of religion, not only in M:ijorca but. elsewhere. The remaining part of the travels is quite as well and as cleverly written, but it has something of a made-up air ; and this, however well it may be done, nay, however good the matter may be in itself, has an artificial character, that fails to excite the reader. -Very often' indeed, the additions made to the observations are suggested by the reality before the author. Mr. Christmas has travelled much in Spain, and he seems thoroughly to understand the Spanish character ; his stay at Barcelona, and the troubles he experienced in the Spanish steamer, lead to reminiscences of anecdotes and facts connected with his former travels. In Italy, late events and the feeling of the people towards Austria are used. as themes. In the Ionian Islands aml at Athens, the reader has a review of the character and polities of the Greek Government, including the proper version of Don Pacifico's grievances, and how firmly yet how considerately Lord Palmerston enforced the rights and redressed the wrongs of British subjects, to the reestablish- ment of British influence in that quarter and our popularity among the natives : for Mr. Christmas is a thorough supporter of Palmer- ston, in whom he sees Europe's bulwark against the Muscovite, and a name of fear on the passport of the British tourist to foreign jacks in office. In Constantinople, the matter is chiefly die- quisitional, touching on the late and present Sultans, the popu- larity of their policy, and what is likely to be its results. The tour from Smyrna involves visits to the Seven Churches ; in which their history and the probable meaning of' St. John occupies a good deal more than their present condition, about which there is not; much to be said as regards several. In all these topics, as well as, in those more directly bearing on travels, Mr. Christmas displays ease and vivacity of style, a cheerful disposition, and both a living and a learned knowledge of the people he is travelling among.

The author's report on Majorca is favourable. He considers the climate preferable to any in the Mediterranean for invalids ; but, unluckily, the natives have a greater dread of consumption than even other Southern people, exaggerating the usual notion of its being a contagious disorder, as if it were a disease resembling plague or cholera. Of the people Mr. Christmas gives a very good account. They are curious as forming the last link between Eu- rope and Africa; much that is pure Moorish in blood and manners still lingering in the Balearic Isles ; while, if not more moral than. Southern peoples usually are, they are quiet, orderly, and honest.

"The inhibitants of Majorca are, generally speaking, of the middle ate.- tore, and clear olive complexions. There is about as much mixture of Moor- ish blood in them as in the Andalushms ; but owing to their insular situation,. and the comparatively little communication they have with the rest of the world, there is much more remaining of the old half-African way of life. It is impossible to ramble about the island without being struck, with this ; and, taken in connexion with the simplicity and gentleness of the people, it gives a peculiar interest to all that surrounds the traveller. The palm-tree, the hedges of cactus and aloes—the shepherds attired in a kind of cloak made of goat-skin—the pages, or peasantry, with the loose wide drawers of blue cotton tied under the knee, the legs bare, and the head covered with a. twisted handkerchief—the women in the African bornouse, (a long dress of blue cotton, enveloping the head as well as the person)—all speak a language which tells us that we are mid-way between Europe and Africa, and must look for the peculiarities of both. "The costume of the pages on holydays is somewhat altered; he attires himself in a blue mantle of cloth, and covers his head with a hat, the brim of which is as big round as an ordinary loo-table No door in the island, save those of the churches, will allow him to enter with this most extraor- dinary contrivance on his head, so he takes it off and introduces it sideways.; it is well called a 'sombrero,' for it is larger than meet English umbrellas! This hat is worn by the priests throughout Spain ; but they roll up the bp= • The Shores and islands of the Mediterranean, including a Visit to the Seven Churches or Asia. By the Reverend H. Christmas, M.A., F.E.S., V .S.A., &c.; Anther 4.-.4ThebyeradBentileeya, the Twin Giante,Seiev•andmiatery." In three-volumes. ruh• on both sides, so that they have a huge cylinder for a hat, worn lengthways, and extending two feet in front and as meek behind. The dress of the wo- men is either the bornouse, which effectually conceals all else, or a corset and short petticoat surmounted by the rebozillo. This last is indispensable at f&es, and the pagilia would think herself all unadorned if this favourite national article of apparel did not make a part of her attire. Its material differs according to the means and taste of the wearer, but its form is always the same. It is generally made of white calico, covers the head, gathers I close round the throat, and then falls in plaits more or less graceful over the breast. The face is thus framed, as it were, in white, and It sets off to some advantage the black hair and dark soft eyes of the Majorcan village belles. It does duty for a good deal of clothing which might, could, would, or should be undmieath; so that on festival days, when the rebozillo is made of tine transparent cambric, the young damsels are rather liberal than chary in the

display of their attractions. • • • • •

"So remarkable is their honesty that locks are almost useless in Majorca. No one thinks of securing his property from robbers, for there are none. Petty larceny is almost as much unknown as highway robbery, and a mur- der is a portent which fills the whole island with consternation. In twelve years there had been but two eases of assassination, and these were by Ca- -talan seamen in the port of Palma."

the matador returna into the centre of the ring. He is clothed in black, the ancient Castilian colour, and his tight-fitting dress is well calculated to ex- hibit the extraordinary perfection of his figure. Holding in one hated his sword and in the other a crimson scarf, he stands waiting the onset of the bull. This is soon and fiercely made. Waving the scarf afore the animal's eyes, and giving him a blow with the flat of the sword across his face Montes stands unhurt behind his ferocious antagonist. A second and a third time is brute (once foiled by human skill ; when the time comes to terminate the conflict. Waiting the brute's approach, the matador stands with his sword slightly raised : the moment that the bull's head is lowered to gore his in- tended victim, Montes bends lightly forward, and, without the slightest ap- pearance of exertion, without ruffling the serene equanimity of his de- meanour, sheaths the point of his weapon between the first mill second ver- tebrae of the neck ; a step backward after drawing, out the sword, and the ponderous weight of the bull rolls heavily over, his eyes glaze, and a short struggle announces that the combat has terminated. " The applause of the spectators shakes the amphitheatre. Montes grace- fully bows to the Queen, and then to the round of his enthusiastic admirers; wipes his sword with his scarf, and presents it to the most distinguished

gentleman present., who returns it to its gallant owner. * * • "A word or two on the almost superhuman feats of Montes may not be unacceptable, as he is not likely to grace the science (' ciencia '!) of tauro- machia much longer. He is rich, and has lately met with a severe accident. He is the author of an approved work on his art, which is much studied by those who wish to rival his renown. He has been seen to wait till the bull's head was lowered to gore him and then placing one foot on the animal's nose, allow himself to be tossed, and, aiding the impetus with a vault, to descend behind the bull. Sometimes he has taken his watch from his pocket and announced his intention of killing the savage beast in a certain number of minutes (two, or three, or three and a halt, neither more nor less,) and has parried every attack till the destined second had arrived. When younger and less careful of dignity, he has been known when engaged with a wide- horned bull to 'take the bull by the horns,' and seat himself across the animal's nose, greatly and m i ost nconveniently perplexing him as to the question what was to be done next."

The church in Majorca is as primitive as the people, and as irreverent in its observances as it was during the middle ages in Europe generally.

"I have said that their church affords the islanders abundance of holydays, of which they are not slow to avail themselves; and these are occasionally celebrated in a way which Protestants would consider sadly unbecoming the dignity and decorum of religious rites. A few specimens will show this. It is no uncommon thing for a masked ball to be held in the church itself! There is one particular kind of dance, called el baile dels cocies,' which is always performed there, and which is perpetrated in this wise. The per- formers are nine in number; two are called diablos, and affect an attire as diabolic° as they can invent, not forgetting horns, hoofs, and a tail : one is called the lady= la dama' ; and the beard, moustache, and embrowned com- plexion, tend 'doubtless to set off the feminine apparel : the remaining six are called cocies. These all go accompanied by the rest of the revellers to the church, where mass is celebrated, and a sermon in Mallorquin preached. Hitherto the masquers have kept in the porch, but now they enter the church, and a dance is commenced in the centre, of which the chief charac- teristic is that it sets all grace and elegance, and (considering the place) de- 'serum itself at defiance ; every kind of tumbling, antic, and buffoonery takes its turn. The diablos and cocies, armed with thick sticks, cudgel heartily all gentlemen whom they can get near ; and though there are frequently broken heads, yet there has never been known any serious breach of the peace to result from these gambols."

As in most primitive out-of-the-way places, family goes for a good deal, and there is much heraldic distinction between ranks.

"There is a great deal of national pride in these islands ; and while they are well contented to form a province of the Spanish monarchy, they yet look on themselves, and rightly enough too, as forming a distinct people. Without the interminable ancestry of the Welsh, they resemble them much in the care which they take of their island pedigrees, and in the exultation with which they exhibit those which are the freest from Spanish intermix- ture. Half a century ago, there were gentlemen in Majorca who boasted not only that they had never visited Spain, but that they had never even ad-

Mr. Christmas arived at Palma in the company of a cargo of bulls and Catalans; the object in view being to introduce the noble

sport of bull-fighting to the Majorcans. The traveller does not cas.i. OVID' WINDOWS.* " But the closing scene approaches. A single man on foot, armed with a

long straight sword, enters the arena : it is Montes—the great Montes, the comes a "sightless song," still too often recall dressed a letter there ; and yet this was combined with a smcere respect for the Spanish character, and a hearty acquiescence in the Spanish government. " The nine chief barons or solars who accompanied Don Jaime when he conquered the Balearic Archipelago. founded families there which are still extant, and even among the nobility affect to be a separate class. In their treaties one with another they assume the language of royal houses, and till a few years ago contracted no marriages out of their own limited circle.

"Twenty years since, one of these families refused a daughter of their house to a grandee of Spain and Captain-General of the province, on the ground of inequality of condition ! and ten years ago a still more remarkable instance occurred. A Majorcan nobleman, of great wealth and high de- scent, but not within the prescribed limits, proposed to one of the magic princesses. The proposal was et first treated with disdain ,• but as the lady's affections were engaged, and as., moreover, the intended bridegroom was young, amiable, rich, accomplished, and well-born, the imperial house con- descended to relent so far as to sty to the Marquis, • We cannot accept your proposal, on account of your inferior blood ; but if you like to run away with the young lady, we will wink at it, and sooner or later receive you as our son-in-law.' To which decent and reasonable proposition the Marquis re- plied, with something of the haughtiness befitting his Castilian descent, that his escutcheon was as good as any in Majorca, and that he was under no ne- cessity of stealing a wife. Ultimately, these high mightinesses gave their sublime consent, and the enchanted circle was broken."