THE COLLECTED WRITINGS OF JANETTA, DUCHESS OF RUTLAND.*
JARETTA, Duchess of Rutland, was one of the great ladies of whom England is proud, who use their advantages of
leisure, wealth, and position in the service of those who are less fortunate. She was the second wife of an already distinguished man, Lord John Manners, one of the
band of young aristocratic philanthropists celebrated by Disraeli in Coningsby : he succeeded to the dukedom in 1888, and found in his wife assistance and sympathy in all his schemes of benevolence. They were deeply interested in the movement for the employment of women long before the latter had conquered the place they now occupy in England, and when the appointment by Lord John Manners of girls as Post Office clerks was considered a great innovation Many more openings have been found since those days, but still not enough to absorb our superfluous women of the upper class. In her article in the Quarterly of January, 1881, the Duchess (then Lady John Manners), while writing in its favour, states very fairly the objections to a public career for her sex. Parents are unwilling to give their daughters the needful training, knoWing how often marriage renders it unnecessary; health, too, may break down under hard work in a close atmosphere: It is difficult to earn a living by needlework or teaching, and they both require some aptitude as well as training. Art of all kinds, including literature, is overstocked and stifled by mediocrity. It is difficult even for men, who are less heavily handicapped, to make a livelihood by any form of it. The lack of employment for women of education is proved by the pages of advertisements in the papers of governesses and secretaries who offer their services. For girls of a poorer class the demand is quite the other way, and they prefer the com- parative liberty of the counter or the refreshment-room to any sort of domestic service. Meanwhile ladies are beginning to take their places. We own that the position of a lady help in England is often painful and difficult. In the Colonies it is far different. There the lady help is on a level with the lady, and is a welcome addition to the family circle.
The Duchess disapproves highly of the self-indulgence of the present day. In her article on Rich Men's Dwellings " (National Review, 1884) she speaks of the luxury which goes on in some " smart" country houses,—the early breakfast in
bed and the heavy meal at ten, and still heavier luncheon from two to three, an equally heavy repast being sent out to the hunters and shooters ; the cakes and sandwiches at tea- time, and the great event of dinner from eight to nine, lasting till ten or half-past, coffee and tobacco following, and liqueurs and tea in the evening. " Then," she says, " the serious business of the night begins for the gentlemen, who
dive into the recesses of the smoking-room and it is rumoured that if a billiard-table is to be found there its attractions draw ladies thither. Brews of many kinds are prepared." If all goes smoothly the host and hostess have their reward, "for several of the guests will perhaps observe; So-and-so really does you very well.' " Ladies cannot economise in dress even in the country "Many whose fortunes cannot be considered large spend £600 a year on their toilettes, and it is not unusual for £1,000 to be expended by those who go out a great deal. There are costumes for every variation of the barometer, specially adapted for every occasion. At 5 o'clock tea the most glowing velvets and rich laces replace the sensible serge suit for an hour, until the tea-gown has to be changed for the less comfortable but equally costly dinner dress. Young unmarried girls wore formerly dressed with sim- plicity ; white draperies like those Sir Joshua used to paint were considered most suitable ; but now, too often £300, £400, or £500 a year is spent on the dress of a girl whose whole fortune may never exceed that amount."
It is no wonder that young men and maidens who have been used to live in this style should fear to marry on small means, and no doubt they are right, for if accustomed to all this luxury they would never be able to put up with the restric- tions and inconveniences of a small establishment, the head of which (for a wife should always be head of the house) has
• The Collected Writings of .Toncttu, Duchess of Rutland. 2 vole. London W. Blackwood and Sou*. L1.7.5.1
chaotic, never been taught to regulate a household or her expenditure. of the It is a comfort, however, to reflect that when onr young men are called upon to serve their country they are able and willing to exchange this enervating life for one of danger,
uff ri and - while who ha s e ng, an pria ation ; w e our young women, w ohave a.
far greater stake than men in an uncivilised country, are glad to be nurses, doctors, and missionaries.
The Duchess has several articles on dress. It is rather tantalising, now that ladies have returned to performing the office of scavengers, to read that in 1885 " girls' neat walking costumes, their hats which protect their eyes, their sensible jackets, form a contrast to the long gowns which required constant efforts to prevent them from trailing in the mud. I recollect the first appearance of a short scarlet petticoat ; festooned skirt was worn. over it, a little wide-awake hat com- pleted the costume. The wearer was much criticised, but her example was soon followed."
Three parts of Vol. II. are taken up with the author's experiences in setting up working-men's clubs, reading and recreation rooms, and contain many valuable hints; but for these and a very pleasant notice of Lord Beaconsfield, visits to foreign watering places, and an exhaustive description of Haddon Hall, we must refer the reader to the book itself.
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