28 MAY 1836, Page 14

WALSH'S RESIDENCE AT Co- NST ANTINOPLE.

ALTHOUGH the temporary interest of ',he historical portion has

elapsed. and the arrangement, followir the order of time, is of necessity broken and desultory, these, arc two delightful volumes. The mutter is various ; the mantle r animated, with a touch of courtliness. For occasional rather than continuous reading, it is a lung lime since we have met sti ch uu att:artive work.

It is ni the recollection of mu st persons who take an interest in literary matter:. that Dr. W AL .sH accompanied Litril STU ANGFORD to Con-tantinople, a; Clinplaan to the English Embassy. This vas at I he close of 1820, aln Att the time of the breaking out of the Greek insurrection; and he remained there four years. when be teturteid over-land in Enoland. Six wars afterwards, Dr. W A1..51 again assumed his spiritual function at Pera ; and fou;d Matters greatly changed in his absence. The Greeks were free, the -Janissaries destruoed, and red caps were substituted fur Milian:: dogs, the former scavengers of Constantinople, were Ariven away, and hogs substituted in their stead ; w me was pub- licly arunk.lam a. publicly eaten, by the politer classes; stranger 'still,-the Sultan was transformed from one of the most bloody butctiers of history to a mild and merciful prince and what is stranger than all, the monatch hall Ironed a '• public instructer," ha% jug started a newspaper. and occasionally writing •' leaders" himself. But the most striking events of the early Greek war, the effects they produced at Constatitinop'e, and the minims and character of the people both hell are and Idler t he Turkish Reform, are our Irian beim, the only subjects of the volume. Dr. WALsn agreeub'y describes his pas-age nut, and the places at which he touched : pleasantly Intermingling the past and the present. He Wade various exeursions from Pera, in whirl he equally display s the ubsetver and Ihe scholar, presenting his reader with descrip- tions of scenes and persons. and Bible and Classical illtistrati ns. lie also furnishes much information as to the vartutis nations and faiths which inhabit Constantinople, more especially of the Ar- menians, Greeks, and Jews.

The hest mode of conveying an idea of the book, however, will be to allow it to speak for itself, paying no further regard in the Selection of the extracts than to their variety. Here is a lively account of Dr. WALSH'S investigation or the plains of Troy.

I clossed the mouth of the Simois, now celled the Mender .son , a turbulent, =tidily river, just such a one as would roll down to the sea the shields, horses, and bodies of heroes that were slain sin its banks. It falls into the Hellespont between the promontories of Sigaetun and Rhceteutn, about four miles apart ; and a flat sweeping bay is formed, where sundry modern Greek craft were drawn up on the strand, like those of their ancestors in dip; of yore. On this alluvial marshy maim stagnant water had accumulated, from which in sum- mer the beams of the son extract a pestiferous miasma, generating a disease like your Waleberen fever ; su that the shafts or rays of Apollo are still as deadly as of old in the same place. The very first glance at it would induce you to say, here is the sickly spot depicted ut the commencement of the Iliad. I passed up a wide plain, between two nearly par..11e1 ranges of hills or high g.rounds. On my right next the sea. was what I supposed to be the mound of Hercules, where Neptune sat with the gods favourable t..) the Greeks; on um left, at a greater distance. was the Kali- Kolone, where those of the Trojans re- clined. I climbed, in the iniddle of the plain. a lorry cheater eminence, evi-

dently artificial, called now Udgeetpe. supposed to i.e the t b of /lisites. whither Polite. was sent to watch the movements of the Greeks. I saw he

could not choose a better spot, for it c anded the whole plain to the Helles- pont. From Ilene? I proceeded to Bounarhashi,—which literally means the " head of the spring •" and here were actually hot wells issuing from the rocks, which were so warm that they sent forth a smoke. and I could baldly bear my hand in them ; a colder spring was ut a little distance. That nothing might be wanting in its present appearance to its ancient character, there were stone basins in which several Turkish females were washing clothes, resembling the heirs; or perhaps the identical ones in which the Trojan women were engaged in a similar occuparions just befine the Greeks came upon them. 16mA:fasted beside sitexeeedingly limpid and picturesque str am, flowing through a verdant flowery meadow, and having elms. willows, tamarisks. cypresses, and other marshy plants adorning its banks, and fish gliding though the entreat and

bounding ft place to place so plenty, that I procured a large dish of them for my meal. The local appearances of this stream exactly resembled those of the Scamander. From hence I climbed the hill of Ramat bashi ; when every cit. truntstance reminded me of the site of Tory. Tenedos lay conspicuously be- side me, and Ida rose behiliol me. Even the ivativ, or mount of wild figs, was there, coveted at this day with these trees, front which I gathered a branch full of fruit as a trophy and memorial.

I set out to return after an early dinner, about the time that Priam left the city to proceed to the Grecian camp to beg the body of Hector. He journeyed the same way, I smtpose, at the same pace. and had the same distance to go. I descended the hill like him, aecompattied by several persona, who left me on the plain. I arrived at the point of junction between the two rivers at twilight, as he did 11 hen dacknesa was coming on ; and. by an odd coincidence. ...v furrogee, who had septeraxed front me at BounarbaAli, tart me at this spot, 1k another Mercury. to rondact me on. It is a cud tttt s fact, and gives an extta- ordinary interest to the place. that though the rivets do not join here now, as in the time of Priam, there is evident testimony that they did so forme' ly The Scatuander at .his day snakes ita may to the )Egean by snottier and core recent chancel; but the ancient bed, where it (runway united its streams with the

Sunis, is still distinctly traceable. I arrived at supper-t' at the tomb of Achilles, .neat which was his tent, which Priam 'cached at the saute hour exactly, • • •

I will 0 at tire you by renewing the controver.i .s of this c lebratell pace,which h' avr been deoliii-ed by moos npoe competent postai.; th.r will I combat the Phi Aux of Jacob Bryant, who ruts the Got dian knot, by affirming that no sects 'place as Troy ever existed, and, coll.:co:vividly, no such event a- the war ever happened: but as you enjoin me to send you something "to set up poor Homer." I may assert that, nutwithstanding some trifling discrepancies. a man who visits the spot must be convinced that it was the :went of Homer's poems. It is quite impassible that his descriptions and the face of nature should so cor- respond by chance. There is sometimes less credulity in believing than in dis- believing, and he must he a triclinium:4 person indeed, who iambi suppose that so many minute and accurate 1111e111111111111111 could occur by mere accident.

As a contrast to the past, take this picture of the present.

TURKISH DES3LATION.

My way lay along the shores of the I lellespont : the weather had now become moderate, and the storm wax succeeded by a balmy sunshine. I cannot describe Ur von the exquisite beauty of the !Waring downs. which extend along the A iaie side of this famous sea. The green sward sloping down to the water's edge. intersected every mile IT some sweet wooded valley. running up into the c try at one extremity, and terminating in the other by a romantic cove. over whose strand the lucid waves rippled. The sound of the waters had something siligularty swotting and harmonious ; and as I made my solitary way in silence along the slime, like Chryses of old, (who, by the by. was also a clergymantiee )rI

thought the waves returned the actual sound of srattp)toiol3ors PaXiiresr. it was that the first picture of Turkish desolation presentisl itself to me. While thuw susiliug prospects, which a good Providence seems to have formed for the delight of 111,114 invite I to fix his dwelling among them, all is desert and desulateas the prairies of the Missouri. In a journey of near ly fifteen miles along the coast, and fur half the length of the Hellespont, I did not meet a single human habitation: and this in the finest climate, the most ter tile soil, and once the most populous country in the world!

Of the Greek war, the particulars, as we have said already, ate too desultory to furnish a cotup!ete view. If we except the for rihle devastation of Scio, they are rather fragments of history than history itself. But the two following passages are not with- out interest.

USES OF A MARITIME POPULATION.

The great service which the islands rendered to the c 'use of Greece, was the sudden creation of a navy. The three most sterile and least piorluctive. were

those which were nu-t cominereial. Having no means of subsistence on the

barren tucks cm which they wet e place41„ they sought alt, nail what nature had fielded them at home. Hydra and Spezzia. at the entrance of the Gulf of Engia, and Ipsara, off the coast of Scio, were the great trailing Wands, whose ships were the rommon carriers of the Archipelago; and nothing could more stongly mark the glowing wealth and prosperity of the people, than the fleets which these barren rocks suddenly supplier) to the commitn cause. Every mer- chant converted his trader into a ship of war. They hail all been armed more or less against the pirates. and an additional supply of cannon was readily pur- ; even the pirates themselves, like the klephtes on shore. abandoned their trade of plunder, and formed against the common enemy. In this way

the insuriecti had scarcely commenced on the continent, when the sea was covered with a squadron of one Moulted and twenty sail lif armed ships carry- ing from ten to twenty guns hf different calibre. The expense at first fell heavily and solely on the metchants ; who, without hesitation or reflection, caught at once the general enthusiasm ; but presently the other islands were ordered to Roy their tribute exclusively for the support of this naval force, and ships were sent about to collect it.

The achievements of this fleet hre almost as incredible as its creation, if we consider the mode in which it was manned. It had use common admiral; first Jaconki Toutbasi, and after him Andreas Miatilis; but the crews were without officers, and were :almost entirely independent of one another ; they had all shares in the ships when engaged in commerce, and they still retained it similar feeling. Every man on board was made acquainted with the object of any ex- pedition, and thought he had a right to give his opinion on it . tine, fortunately, was a perfect unanimity in their hatred to the Turks, and a perfect unity of action when called on to oppose them. The slight frame of the ships, and the incongruous materials of which the equipage was composed, were altog. ther inadequate to contend with the gigantic three of the Turkish vessels, which in appearance are perhaps the finest in the world,—of which a single one of first-rate would apparently blow the whole Grecian squadron out of the water. But, like the Persians of old, they were as unmanageable as they were large; and the only part of their crews whit+ was capable of manceuvering them were Greeks, who could no longer be trusted. But they had another enemy to combat with, before which the very magnitude of their noble ships was a cause of destruction : this was the hruhlts, or fire-ships, which were directed against them with such tremendous effect. It was not a novel invention, but the revival of a practice which had terrified Asia and astonished Europe in the middle ages.

CONSTANTINOPLE ON THE FIRST NEWS OF THE CREEK INSURRECTION.

Hitherto we enjoyed the most perfect tranquillity. We went about with a feeling of as much security as in London, wherever business or amusement led us ; and we found all classes of the various nations which compose the popula- tion of the capital, not only disposed in the most friendly manner towards us, but towards each other. One day I went down to Galata, and paid a visit to Mr. Bertrand, a venerable old gentlemen, who was considered the father of the British factory. He was a pleasant man, and rather inclined to be cheerful than scrim's. I perceived him labourir.g under great agitation. lie said he had been fifty years in the country, and never saw it in the state of perilous rommotion in whirl] it then was. 1 thought, from his usual habits, he was sting with me ; but I found him perfectly serious. He info' mid me he had just had certain information of a general insurrection of the Greeks all over the Turkish empire; that Prince Ypsilantes, with whose father he was well acquainted, had entered Moldavia from Russia; raised the standard of revolt, which all the Greeks of the provinces had joined ; and that they were daily expected to march on Constantinople, where the whole population of Oriental Christians were ready to join them; and that a total destruction of persons and property 'trail the Frank residents must ensue in the commotion. In confirma- tion, he showed me a Greek proclamation, which he had just receiveul from one of his correspondents. He assured me at the same time, that such was the secrecy with which this vast project was conducted, that the most remote rumour or suspicion of such a thing had not transpired among the numerous Greeks with which he and other merchants had daily and extensive lousiness. On toy tenon to Pera, I taind a total change had taken place in a few hours in the appearance and manners of the people There was no public new,:iper to transmit the intelligence of any event ; hut personal communication is a more rapid conveyance. The news of the insurrection had just transpired, and it was caught up and spread from mouth to mouth with the rapidity of wildfire. The Armenians, who have sh:ups in Galata, were hastening haute to their residence,. iii Pera; a gamy of them was ascending the hill before ine.and they Inoked about every minute in the greatest alarm. They are a quiet, timid people, and they seemed to labour under the apprehension of some great evil. The Turks were walking slowly about, holding one hand on the hilt of their

yatagans, and with the other twisting their nitisiatelles; strode the Greeks and Jews. Who neve, they met them, gut out of their way Late s01113 Store or cider_ house that happened to be open.

The atiutaties which were daily and systematically perpetrated in the street. of the capital after the confirmation of the first re- putt, equal the most savage horrors attendant upon the sack of a city. The Turks pinned t..e Greeks to the wall as they met them in the street : u hell, taught by experience of the fate which awaited them, they confined theteselt es to their houses, their houses were tunsacked, their property plundered. and the owners dragged forth and murdered. with u composed and methodical el 'telt% almost inciedille. Nor did the Mussulmans step here: the Flanks were insulted, spit upon. beaten, and robbed; and the armed populace fired upon the Euroreati vessels in the harbour. Of all these proceedings Dr. WALSH gives ay teral and particular examples, sufficient to enable any one to sup fell of horrors. About the diplomatic proceedings he is hi ief,complirnen my, and cautious. We gather enough, however, to conclude that England was not represented with hemming spirit, nor, from some wretched Tory indite's about " balmiers of power- and "ancient allies," her diameter inoperly nntintaitted. A remat k that may be extended to the representatives of every other European power, with one exception. Whatever might have been his motives, the only one of the band who aett d with the decision and energy befitting a great within, was the Ambassador of Russia. There is also ano- ther conclusion to which the reader of these sections of Dr. Wat.sit's Constantinople will come,—which is, that the govern- meet of Russia, or any totter government, must have been so great a change fin• tlie better, a' to be beyond all degree of comparison.

Let us turn from these subjects to others of a lighter nature, and conclude our extracts with a few miscellaneous subjects.

THE PRESS IN TURKEY.

On Saturday the 5th of Nevember 18:31, this phenomenon, called Tuakvimi Veekai, or the " Tablet of Events," first appealed in the Turkish capital, and has ever since liven regularly published. In order to give it lieue extensive circulation, every pasha In the empire is obliged to subncribe for a eel fain num- ber of tapirs, for the Woo mat' of the people of his paehalik, among whom they are distributed. It is printed in two bah, sl.egs, in Turkish and in French ; the latter is called the Munitenr Oriental. The ime is read by the natives and rases, and the other by the Franks. It is issued with great exactness; and every Saturday morning it is sent up with our breakfast as regu- larly as a weekly paper in Loudon. Ion. The Sultan takes great intelest in it, reads it regularly, and is himself a cuntributor to it, writing sometimes the leading article.

The contents of the paper are usually as folksy. They commence with Con.

stantiurede and the • •ei lid of the Turkish empire The principal details are those of the :truly and navy, their movements and the change of officer... with bulletins of action by land or sea, fairly given, without Much p pons Orien- talist. Then follow civil affair, events of the provinces, with always a favour- able view of things, and an rulogium on the Sultan's treasures for the good of the people. Then succeed news of other countries; with sometimes extracts from the debates of the French Chamber of Deputies and the English Parlia- ment, in which latter Alt- O'Connell cuts a conspicuous figure. One could batlIv imagioe that violent democratic language would be permitted in a Turkish paper; as set, however, it is harmless, for the people do not under- stand it. But the most extraordinary communication is a kind of budget, in which the receipts of public money are given, and the expenditure accounted for, with an accuracy of derail in piasters and pares that would please Mr. flume. This is a thing Mine unheard of in Turkish policy ; where public money was a mystery. and every thing conce g it kept sever, both In its collection and expenditure. These subjects are varied with accounts of useful inventions, elementary sketches of the arts and sciences, and sometimes pleasing and in- structive stories.

The Turks, when this newspaper first appeared, had no conception of any

amusement to be derived from such a thing; Inn, like children, when their curiosity was once excited, it knew no bounds. The publication of the news of the empire in this way soon became of universal attraction. The paper made its way to the coffeehouses, and the saute Turk that I had noticed belie e dozing, half stupified with coffee and tobacco, I now saw actually awake, with the paper ill hie hand, eagerly spelling out the news. But the meet usual mode of cum- Inunicating it are news rooms; and a place is taken where those who wish to Lear it assemble. A stool is placed in the centre, Olt which the man who can read sits, and others form a circle round him and listen. The attention paid is very different fr that which I saw them give to a story-teller. There was no mirth or laughtet excited. but all seemed to listen with protnund attention, in- terrupted only sometimes by a gravy ejaculation of " Inehallab," or " Allah Keerim." The first thing a Turk of any consequence is anxious to know is, whether he has been mentioned, and what is said of him • and in this he shows a sensitiveness even superior to a Londoner or a Parisian, because, as the Sultan is the virtual editor, his opinion of a man is of some impel tance.

GEOGRAPHY AND TI1E USE OF THE GLOBES.

Lord Strangford sent the Porte a valuable present. He had brought with Lim a pair of very large globes from England ; and as the Turks had latterly

shown some disposition to learn languages, he tl gilt it %email be a good op- pnetUnily to t'rut'h them something else ; and he dart mined to send them over to

the Porte, and asked me to go with them and explain their object. • • •

I his important present was brought over with hem, • grespert. A chnuash went first with his baton of office; then followed two janissailes, like Atlases, bearing worlds ion their shoulders; then myself; attended by our principal dra- goman in full costume; and, finally, a vain of jrniesaries arid attendants. When arrived at the Fur re, we were introduced to the Reis Effendi, or minister for foreign affairs, who, with 'abet ministers, were waiting fur us. When I had the globes put together on their fi awes, they came round us with great interest; and the Reis Effendi, who thought, ex officio, he ought to know something of geography, pet on his spectacles and began to examine them. The first thing that struck them was the compass in the stand. When they observed the needle always kept the same position, they expressed great surprise, and thought it was done by some interior mechanism. It was imil-day, and the shadow of the frame of the window was on the floor. I endeavoured to explain to them that the needle was always found nearly in that direetiun, pointing to the north : I could only make them comprehend that it always turned towards the sun. The Reis Effendi then asked me to show Idiot England. When I pointed nut the *mall coetparative era on the great globe. he tut net to the rest, and said

Klatt•Iuk,id little ; and they repe.rted all round " Katchirk," in various tones of centempt but when I showed them the dependencies of the empire, and particularly the respectable size of beha, they said " Buyirk," big, with some narks of respect. I also took oricasiuu to &hew them the only amide of corning from thence to Constantinople by sea, and that a ship could not sail with a cargo. of coffee from Mocha across the isthmus of Suez. The nen ly -appointed di ago-. man of the Porte, who had been u Jew, and was imbued o kir a -lighter tinc• tore of information, was present ; so, after explaining to hi nits emelt as I could make him cempreheml. I left to him the task of further instructing the ministers in this new science. Indeed it appeased to one as if none of thetu bad ever seeu an artificial globe before, or even a marine' .s,compass.

AMBASSADORIAL PRESENTS.

The manner in which these presents were dismay', of was a proof of the estimation in which they were held. They ciaist•teil nits jewels, snuff boxes, and ether articles presented to the Sultan, Grand Vizir. Reis Effendi, and other officers. These things were made by Rundle and Bridge, jewellers to the King, who hail an agent at Constaittinople to repurchase tient. Instead of

being Retained by the persons to wl they were presented as hmeirary dis- tinction., which they would he fund to keep and display, the agent was ' ne-

4liately sent for ; and frequently, on the very day on 0 Lich they were given, a bargain Was Made, and the article Was knight aiul sent back tin Luellen, where it was a little altered in the setting, repurchased by Government, and ag tin pre- sented by the next Ambassador ; so that the same article has gime through this process several times.

A PHYSIOLOGICAL FACT.

A singular circumstance related by slime of these men was, that almost the only part of their emacieted companions, who died in the filigrees, capable of aff riling a meal, was their hems. While all the rest of the body was attenuated so that scarcely a fibre of flesh covered the bones, the muscles of the heart re- mained as plump and full as during health, and was always the part sought by those whit fed on the beds..

From their first appearance as a nation, the Turks and their Sultan hate always been inscrutable—a moral mid historical puz- zle. Many of the facts of Dr. WALSH add considerably to the difficulty ; but neither his statements nor his rellec:ions furnish means of solving it. The only eireCIS ill which we can see the slightest trace of causes, are the present peaceable state of Con- stantinople. and the ease with which some or the late changes re- garding religious putictili is have been effected. The massacre of the linissartes, turd the thinning of the levies in mass raised for the Greek and Russian wars, petty well purged the capital of its scum, leaving only the more quiell■ -disposed behind: and as to the other point, Dr. WALSH seems to consider that Infidelity is widely spread amongst the Mabotnetans even of the lower classes.