28 NOVEMBER 1998, Page 32

Fish and chips

THE WORST news from the City all year, comes from Leadenhall Market, where I find the shutters down at Ashdowns.

market itself, with its red and gold Victoue an ironwork and high glass roof, puts as ostentatious neighbour, Lloyd's of Lone°' in its place. Ashdowns is or was its superla- tive fish shop, with the jaunty Captal°, `Beachy' Blackett presiding in straw hat an' Wellington boots and (for the occasion) tire, sandwich board that he wore to piebe` Lloyd's. His smoked salmon was onee deemed too expensive for the Bank of Eng; land but I saw no need to make sue" economies. Alas, Ashdowns has had trot!: bles with its own financing, and these Ors threaten to overwhelm it. Surely It, resourceful City customers can find a rale, dy? If not, it will be time to pull the shuttel' down on the City.