EL VINO, the famous Fleet Street wine bar, is still
home to a few louche journalists and to many of m'learned friends in spongebag trousers. Rump°le of the Bailey is its most famous, if fictional, client, and at lunchtime his wraith can still be seen in the comfortable, musty back-room, reliving triumphs over Mr Justice Bullimore while nursing a bottle of Chateau Thames Embankment. Recently, thanks to what I can only call generational tension between Sir David Mitchell and his nephew Anthony Mitchell, its admirable list has grown to include not only French classics, but some of the most exciting wines from the New World. This month's offer reflects that blend, with three French wines, a South African, a Chilean, an Australian and an American. I could easily have selected a dozen fascinating bottles, and as it is couldn't get the number below seven. All are excellent value, some are generously discounted, and delivery is. as ever, free.
The Pinot d'Alsace Reserve 2001' is a smashing light, fruity, spicy drop with that terrific heady whiff that comes with all good Alsace wines and which makes them, somehow, doubly intoxicating. Reduced to a very tempting £6.15.
The Lexicon Viognier 20013' from California is a terrific treat. American wines have such a solid and prosperous home market that it's almost impossible for European importers to find good buys. This is one. It has that fresh, herby Viognier flavour but is richer and plumper than most. It's a very reasonable £6.60. I liked it a lot, and plan to drink plenty.
I continue to rave about South African wines, and the Clos Malverne Sauvignon Blanc 2002 is yet another astonishing bottle. Some Sauvignon Blanes — including too many Sancerres — make your mouth pucker as if you'd just eaten unripe gooseberries or thought of John Prescott, naked. This, by contrast, has all the right kiwi fruit and grassy flavour but with a creaminess that creates a lovely balance. It's just £7.60.
The Vire-Clesse 20004' is surely one of the finest products of the Maconnais. Andre Bonhomme is a superb winemaker, never allowing nonsense about pea de la terre (often a euphemism for 'tastes of pebbles') to get in the way of a full-flavoured, rich, honeyed wine. At £9.20 it must be one of the best white Burgundy bargains to be found anywhere in the world. Anthony Mitchell is holding back 70 cases for Spectator readers, and you'll need to get in quite quickly.
Now a sensational bargain. El Vino's own Velvin carries on its label the cryptic legend `rnise en bouteille par D.P.F. a F21700'. A glance at the Michelin guide tells you that 21700 is a postcode in the Cote d'Or. A sip of the wine tells you that this is almost all Pinot Noir. In other words, you are getting a good, well-made wine from the Burgundy grape made inside Burgundy. El Vino isn't allowed to tell you that this is, in all but name. a very decent bottle of red Burgundy sold for — £3.95. Like Rumpole, I rest my case. You might wish to buy several.
The Bisquertt Merlot 20006' from the Colchagua Valley in Chile costs £6.15, and has the softness of a good Merlot, such as you might find in St-Emilion, but contains lots of fruit as well. A perfect wine for winter roasts and casseroles, and, unlike some French wines at a similar price, lacks that quantity of tannin which makes you think your stomach is being lined like an old radiator.
Finally the Macaw Creek 20007' from south Australia is made from Grenache and Shiraz, and is a very distinguished wine indeed, reduced for us to £7.75. It's velvety, spicy. slightly peppery, and perfumed, with flavours which mingle and linger on the tongue. I loved it, and your friends will too.
There is a further discount of £1 per case if you buy two or three cases, rising to £1.50 per case if you buy four or more. The sample case contains two of everything except the Velvin: that's so cheap that only a skinflint would not buy a dozen.
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