29 SEPTEMBER 1944, Page 14

Sta,—It is perfectly useless to think of attracting the tourist

taffic to this country until the standard of cookery has been raised from its present deplorably low leveL Only in those hotels and restaurants where foreign chefs are employed is a first-class meal to be had followed by a good cup of coffee. Even a well-known club I could name failed in the last- mentioned item. I suggest that the majority of middle-class homes do not even know what a good cup of coffee is, still less how to make it, and as many housewives have no notion of cookery themselves, they are totally unable to train their cooks.

This war with its liquidation of almost all domestic staffs has shown up the complete ignorance in domestic science of large numbers of house- holders. Visitors coming from the Continent where in any country and in any hotel, large or small, excellent cooking may be had, will demand something better than this country has hitherto been able to offer.—Yours