SPECTATOR'S LIBRARY.

Volume AND TRAVELS, Discoveries in Australia ; with an Account of the Coasts and Rivera Explored and Surveyed during the Voyage of H. M. S. Beagle, in the years 1837-38-39-40-41-42-48, by command of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. Also, a Narrative of Captain Owen Stanley's Visits to the Islands in the Arafura Sea. By J. Lort Stokes, Commander, B.N. In two volumes Boone. Minions, Observations on the Books of Genesis and Exodus, and Sermons. By the late Robert Forsyth, Esq., Advocate. To which is prefixed a Memoir of the Author.

POETRY, Blaektroods. A Book of Highland Minstrelsy. By airs. D. Ogilvy. With Illustrations by R. R.

,N adman

DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA.

Ox the return of the Beagle from the expedition commanded by Cap- tain King, she was selected for a voyage of survey and discovery along the coasts of Australia and New Guinea, in order to construct charts to improve the navigation, examine the character of the country near the sea, and pursue, as far as was practicable, any river- opening that might offer sufficient promise to warrant diversion from the primary business of the voyage, which was that of marine surveying. In these pursuits the expedition was engaged between six and seven years, 1837-1843; at first under the command of Captain Wickham, and when his health failed, under that of his second, Commander Lort Stokes. The narrative of their labours, discoveries, and perils, with the practical re- sult of their surveys, is contained in the ample volumes before us, and the maps and charts which accompany them. An interesting account of two voyages from Port Essington to the Southern parts of the In- dian Archipelago is contributed by Captain Owen Stanley. The course of the surveying expedition extended round the entire coasts of New Holland and Van Diemen's Land; involving repeated visits to most of the colonies, especially to Swan River and Port Essing- ton. The places to which more especial attention was paid were— Bass Straits between Van Diemen's Land and Australia Felix, and Torres Straits at the Northern extremity of the continent, both celebrated for the dangers of the navigation and for wrecks; the Gulf of Carpentaria, that large indented sea running deeply into the North end of the conti- nent of New Holland ; and nearly the whole of the North-west coast from Port Essington to the Tropic of Capricorn. The minntize of these surveys, however essential to the navigator, involving, as they may, life or death, are most fitly exhibited on charts,—for mere description conveys but little to the mind : the narrative of the daily proceedings by sea and land, with the lesser explorations and their results, could not be con- densed by us with interest., if at all : but the greater discoveries, con- sisting of several rivers, may be indicated. Of these streams, by far the most important is Victoria river which falls into the Indian Ocean, on the North-west side of New Holland, in about latitude 150 South and 1290 East longitude. At its confluence with the sea, it is twenty-six miles wide, and of considerable depth in its channel. For about thirty-five miles however, it is rather an inlet than properly a river. On ascending that distance, its character entirely changes ; flowing through a narrow defile of "a precipitous rocky range of compact sandstone, rising from 400 to 600 feet in height, in some places not less than twenty, fathoms deep, with a velocity sometimes not less than six miles an hour.'

"It continues a rapid stream during its passage through this defile, an extent of some thirty miles; and beyond it is found slowly winding its way toviards the sea across a nch alluvial plain, fifteen miles in width. Above this plain isfonad a second range of similar character and formation to that before mentioned; the stream, however, having of course somewhat less both of width and depth, and flowing with a decreased rapidity. The elevation of the hills on either side was at first entering considerably less than in the former range; they had also lost much of their steep and precipitous appearance; but as we gradually proceeded up, the former distinctive characteristics returned: the hills rose higher and more boldly, almost immediately from the water's edge, and continued each mile to present a loftier and more rugged front; never, however, attaining the extreme altitude of the former or Sea Range. Above Reach Hopeless, the width of the al- luvial land lying between the immediate margin of the river and the hills which bound its valley, considerably increased; and just in proportion as the high bold land approached the channel on one shore, it receded from it on the opposite, and left an extensive alluvial flat between that bank and the retreating hills."

The river, in October and November, when it was explored, was found to be navigable for the Beagle about sixty miles, and was ascend-

ed in boats for nearly sixty miles further. Navigation beyond was brought to a stand by one of those long dry patches which are found in all the Australian rivers after the season of the floods. A pedestrian excursion, however, traced the course of the river for some distance upwards ; the character and soil of the country improving as they ascended, and the river continuing of undiminished magnitude. The heat, and the exhaustion of some of the party, however, compelled a re- turn to the boats, when one hundred and forty miles distant from the sea. "Its apparent direction continued most invitingly from the Southward—the vet, line to the heart of this vast land, whose unknown interior has afforded so math scope for ingenious speculation, and which at one time I had hoped that it was reserved for us to do yet more in reducing to certainty. And though from the point upon which I stood to pay it my last lingering farewell the nearest reach of water was itself invisible, yet far, far away, I could perceive the green and glisten- ing vallies through which it wandered, or rather amid which it slept; and the refreshing verdure of which assured me, just as convincingly as actual observa- tion could have done, of the constant presence of a large body of water; and left an indelible impression upon my mind which subsequent consideration has only served to deepen, that the Victoria will afford a certain pathway far into the centre of that country, of which its one of the largest known rivers." The next river in point of navigable importance was the Adelaide, which empties itself into Clarence Strait at the Northern extremity of the continent, in about latitude 13° and longitude 131°, and flows in nearly a_Southerly direction, in fact almost perpendicular to the Victoria. It was ascended by boats for about eighty miles ; when it divided into two branches, one taking a Southerly, the other an Easterly direction. The latter was too narrow for the boat's-oars. The SOutherly or main stream was blocked up by fallen trees lying across it: As soon as the mere em- bouchure was passed with its mangroves, the soil and vegetation dis- played more of Tropical luxuriance than is found along the usually arid plains of the Western coast of New Holland. The third river, called the Albert, falls into the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria in longitude 1400; and as far as navigation is concerned, is the least important of the three. It has a bar at the mouth, and Com- mander Stokes could only ascend it for fifty miles. The country, how- ever, appears beautiful and fertile, and much better watered than the other parts of the continent. Two other rivers were discovered, but of less consequence : the Fitzroy, in latitude about 18i° longitude 123°, which was ascended through con- tinual impediments for ninety miles ; the Fitzmaurice, which meets the effluence of the Victoria, pretty much as the Medway does the Thames. It takes a North-easterly direction, and was ascended by Mr. Fitzmaurice for about eighty miles. Of these five rivers, the Victoria is not only the most considerable, but it is perhaps the most important in the whole continent; for although the Murray receives more tributaries and drains a larger extent of country, it is not nearly so navigable, nor has it apparently such a continuous stream. The proximity of the Fitzmaurice, the Adelaide, and several lonelier rivers, whose head-waters would seem to rise near each other— the probable fertility of the soil, and its adaptation to Tropical produc- tions—together with the neighbourhood of the Indian Archipelago—ren- der this part, and indeed the whole peninsula lying between the Gulf of Carpentaria and the Indian Ocean, of considerable prospective value. Settlement, however, must be a work of time. Further exploration is required; we want to know more of the soil, more of the water and cli- mate: and after all, it must rather be plantation than colonization. In the climate North of Swan River, though the European may preserve his health, it is very doubtful whether he can retain it if exposed to labour. But the climate will agree very well with the Chinese and Malays, who can be procured in any number • and its future population will per- haps be Europeans, as traders, capitalists, and skilled mechanics with Chinamen and inhabitants of the Archipelago for labourers. This is a state of things which can hardly be brought aboutper saltunt, but must grow up. Settlement from Sydney has already extended to Moreton Bay; and, if facilitated, will gradually extend Northwards till it reach the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, adapting itself to circumstances as they arise, and laying a surer and more natural foundation than any pro- jecting speculation. No doubt, a Government that understood the subject of colonization, and would judiciously carry it out on a large and liberal scale, might do much ; but all that we are likely to obtain from a British Ministry, is a few exploring expeditions, the establishment of a post at a fitting place, (if any other people is likely to go there,) and facilities to settlers.

As bases of exploration these discoveries are important; though we do not agree with the enthusiasm of Captain Stokes, who considers that the Victoria will afford a certain pathway far into the interior. The rivers of this continent, so far as they are known, are too uncertain for any one to infer the unseen from the visible : the most promising- looking stream, or lake-like reach, is quickly followed by a dry bed with only:a few water-holes; and there is nothing to lead one to suppose but that the Victoria may be the same a dozen miles from where Captain Stokes quitted it. The banks gave indications of extensive floods, as in the other rivers of this parched country : twice in the party's upward pro- gress the usual dry beds were encountered, and the last time the boats could not be dragged over. No doubt, a land expedition may make its way till these pools entirely fail and no water can be procured by digging ; but we should not feel certain that one hundred miles could be safely

made, much less five, the distance into the centre of New Holland. It is, however, worth the trial, especially as the sixty or seventy miles

navigable for ships enables us to establish a floating settlement, with ample supplies, well in the country; and they might be carried still further in boats. The river Fitzmaurice, and the country intervening between it and the Adelaide, also require examination.

• The volumes which contain the narrative of these discoveries, and some others of a minor kind, are interesting from the novelty of their subjects : they have, too, the attraction that newness of exploration always possesses, and the spirit of adventure which the reader partakes of with the explorer, hoping with his hopes, rejoicing in his success, and feeling his disappoint- ment. The frequent visits, and at wide intervals, to different colonies in different stages of advancement, give change and interest to the narra- tive; which is also varied by adventures with the natives from man and alligators to mosquitoes and flies. The bulk of the book, however, is a task upon the reader's powers of endurance : and this is caused by an error we have before pointed out in works of this nature—the mixture of

technical or scientific with the more popular matter. The mass of readers care nothing for the merely nautical proceedings of the voyage, still less for its surveying business ; whilst the alternation of marine surveying with narrative and description rather alloys the professional interest of the former. A better work for all parties would have bee.n produced by two divisions—one for the general, one for the professional reader.

• Some of the most curious passages of the book are those which give an account of the interviews with the Natives, who saw White men for the first time. Here is a specimen of some near Adelaide river.

"Near Escape Cliffs I met a small family of Natives, consisting of an elderly Man, his wife, and four children. By degrees, advancing alone, I contrived to get near enough to make the woman a present of a handkerchief; in return for which, she gave use a large leaf of the cabbage palm that was slung across her back. I at length drew all the family around me; the eldest child, a youth of about

fifteen, being the most timid. * •

"These people exhibited more curiosity than I had before noticed in the Abo- rigines, as I was able to induce them to visit the whale-boat that was on shore close by. Here, as in other places, the size of the oars first astonished them, and next the largeness of the boat itself. The exclamations of surprise given vent to by the old man as he gazed on the workmanship of his civilized brethren were amusing: suddenly a loud shout would burst from his lips, and then a low Whistle. I watched the rapid change of countenance in this wild savage with

interest; all his motions were full of matter for observation. The mixed curiosity and dread depicted in his dusky face, the feeling of secret alarm at this first ren-

contre with a White man intruding in his native wilds, which he must have ex- perienced, added much to the zest of the scene. I, however, at length almost wsuaded the old man to accompany me on board: he even put one foot in the boat for the purpose; when, seeing the depth of the interior, he recoiled with a slight shudder, as if from immersion in cold water. He was now overwhelmed by the woman and elder child with entreaties not to take such a rash step; and their rude eloquence succeeded" MATERNAL sairrnaztrr.

The reader will remember the native named Alligator, whom I have mentioned on a previous visit to Port Essington. I witnessed in his family an instance of affection for a departed child, which, though it exhibited itself in this peculiar manner, was extremely. touching. The wife had treasured up the bones of the little one, and constantly carried them about with her, not as a memento mori, but as an object whereon to expend her tenderest emotions whenever they swelled within her breast. At such times she would put together these bones with a ra- pidity that supposed a wonderful knowledge of osteology, and set them up that she might weep over them. Perhaps, in her imagination, as she performed this melancholy rite, the ghastly framework before her became indeed with the co form of infancy; bright eyes once more sparkled in those hollow cells, and a smile of ineffable delight hung where in reality, was nought but the hideous grin of death. I exceedingly regret that the mother who could feel so finely was WEIS time afterwards over-persuaded to part with the bones of her child.

NATIVE TRADE.

I may here mention, that the medical officer of the settlement was in the habit of extracting teeth for the Natives, who found the European method much more easy than their own mode of knocking them out [as marks'. The supercargo of a vessel, learning this fact, was anxious to become a purchaser of teeth to some extent for the London market, being persuaded that they would find a ready sale among the dentists; and it is more than probable that many of our fair ladies at home are indebted for the pearls on which the poets exhaust so much of their fancy to the rude natives of Australia.

All the Northern rivers are infested by alligators ; which, besides their unpleasant proximity, sometimes gave rise to narrow escapes. Here is one adventure.

"Several flights of large curlews were seen passing over the boat, and resting on the flats in its neighbourhood. Whilst endeavouring to procure tiODIS of them, I was placed in a sufficiently awkward position, running the risk of becoming myself a fresh meal instead of procuring one. I had stripped to swim across a creek, and with gun in hand was stealthily crawling to the outer edge of the flat where my intended victims were, when an alligator rose dose by, bringing his un- pleasant countenance much nearer than was agreeable. My gun was charged with shot; and the primitive state of nudity to which I had just reduced myself precluded the possibility of my having a second load. To fire, therefore was use- Iess, and to retreat difficult, for I had wandered from the boat some distance across the bank, on which the water was fast rising. Thought there was no time for and before my companions could have reached me, the tide would have flooded the for; sufficiently to enable the alligator to attack me at a disadvantage. My only chance of escaping themonster was to hasten back to the boat, and to cross the last creek before the alligator, who appeared fully aware of my intentions. It was now therefore, a mere matter of speed between us; and the race began. I started off with the utmost rapidity, the alligator keeping pace with me in the water. After a sharp and anxious race, I reached the last creek, which was now much swollen; while the difficulty, of crossing was aggravated by my desire to save my gun. Plunging in' I reached the opposite shore just in time to see the huge jaws of the alligator extended close above the spot where I had quitted the water. My de- liverance was providential; and I could not refrain from shuddering as I sat gain- ing breath upon the bank after my escape, and watching the disappointed alligator lurking about as if still in hopes of making his supper upon me. Waiting till the monster came close, I took a deliberate aim at his eye; which had only the effect of frightening him a little."