30 MAY 1998, Page 25

Potwell and Colornendy

Sir: Ross Davies (Letters, 9 May) is right to say that north Wales is not a gastronomic paradise. However, fortunately for one who lives there, there are more than a few establishments in this part of north-east Wales which are very much 'above con- tempt'. May I recommend Richard's Place (no relation) in Llandudno as a superb bistro? No. 1 in Llandudno isn't bad either. In Mold there is a little Italian restaurant called the Belvedere which demonstrates Italian `alla casalinga' home cooking par excellence. The Stables at Soughton nearby is also very good: choose your fish from the kitchen and wine from a rack of horse- boxes, and try the roasting lamb on the spit.

As for pubs, the Boat on the Dee at Erbi- stock, by a little church and woods, reminds me of Mr Polly's Potwell Inn, the Colomendy Arms at Cadole is unspoilt by brewers' horrors, and the Miner's Arms at Maeshafn, despite its professionally rude host, has good food and beer.

Pubs Ltd have established three or four first-class pub/restaurants with a formula of book-lined rooms, log fires and good beer (try the Pantyrochain near Marford) and there are others if you search.

A sad exception is the little seaside town of Conway, with its wonderful castle and fishermen bringing in lobster, crab and seafish to an unappreciative market, where there is not one good fish restaurant; the fish, I am told, go straight to Belgium and Spain among other places, none to the home market. If the houses were painted pink, blue and yellow and the sunshine were guaranteed, this would rival anywhere on the Med.

Sometimes the pleasure of finding such places for oneself outweighs the compara- tive scarcity. And the scenery is glorious.

Richard Vaughan Davies

Ty Gwyn, Ruthin Road, Loggerheads, Nr Mold, Clwyd