30 MAY 1998, Page 57

Pentecost, SUNDAY we have the great feast of rentecost, or

Whit Sunday, derived from White Sunday, so called because it was a season during which there were many bap- tisms, for which the candidates wore white garments. During the week leading up to it we have dear little Madeleine Barat, born ten years before the French Revolution, Who was obviously a whizz kid, becoming a mother superior at 23 and setting up a soci- ety to educate girls at Amiens in 1801. By 1865 she had founded over 100 houses and schools in 12 countries, including the Unit- ed States. On 26 May we had the feast of our own patron saint at the London Orato- ry, Philip Neri, followed by the great St Augustine of Canterbury, Germain of Paris, and Theodosia of Constantinople, who killed one of the emperor's officers by shaking him off a high ladder while he was trying to destroy an icon of Christ. She then stoned the palace of the heretic patriarch and was tortured and killed for her trouble. Joan of Arc, Petronilla, Cantius, Cantianus and Cantianella finish off the week in style. My invaluable Mr Claude Kauffmann, he of the Brazilian Feijoada, has sent me another wonderful receipt for a simple chicken dish which will be a delight to any of the anti-fat folk. It comes from a cele- brated Venetian chef. It is simple and easy to prepare and absolutely mouth-watering. The secret lies in a herbed salt.

Roast chicken with herbed salt 1 large natural chicken

2 heaped tablespoons herbed salt 3 large garlic cloves, peeled 3 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 sprigs fresh thyme

Pre-heat the oven to Gas 6, F400, C200. Rub the herbed salt into both the inside and outside of the chicken. Place the garlic (slightly bashed), rosemary and thyme inside the bird. Place the chicken in a roast- ing tray and cook in the oven for about 90 minutes until well golden and the thigh juices run a clear colour when pierced. Take it from the oven and let it stand or 1 never heard canned crying before.' rest at room temperature for 15 minutes before carving — this makes all the differ- ence. Remember, do not use any butter, oil or fat. Serve with any delicious vegetables you have to hand, tiny new potatoes, but- tered carrots etc. . . . Now the salt.

Herbed salt

1 lb of fine sea salt 4 heaped tablespoons fresh rosemary 4 heaped tablespoons fresh thyme 2 heaped tablespoons fresh marjoram 12 garlic cloves, peeled

Cut all the herbs and garlic as finely as possible — use a food processor, a blender, or a very good sharp knife. Mix with the salt in a fairly large bowl and let it stand for 24 hours at room temperature in order to dry out. Place it in an airtight jar and keep it in the pantry, larder or refrigerator to use when required. It can be used at will on chops, steaks, guinea fowl and the like. Great stuff.

As you will have a carcass left over from the chicken, I thought you could make a nice historical soup named after Peter I, called 'The Great, Emperor of Russia', born in Moscow on 31 May 1672, a suitable anniversary creme.

Creme Pierre-le-Grand It should be the carcasses of four hazel hens but our carcass will suffice, I'm sure; you can add more bones if you have them.

3 1/2 pints water

1 large onion, sliced 1 carrot, sliced 2 stalks of celery bouquet gami of bay leaf, parsley and thyme 2 oz flour 2 oz butter 8 oz single cream 2 eggs vodka For the garnish: cooked mushrooms, carrots and celery.

Break down the carcass into a saucepan and cover with the cold water. Add the onion, carrot, celery and bouquet garni. Bring all to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for 1 1/2 hours covered. Cream the butter and flour together to make a smooth paste. When ready, strain the stock and return it to the saucepan, wiped clean of any bits and pieces. Reboil, then add the creamed butter and flour in little pieces one at a time, stirring until the soup thick- ens and becomes creamy. Taste for season- ing, adding salt and freshly ground pepper. Beat the eggs and cream together, lower the heat under the pan, then add the cream mixture, not allowing the soup to boil or it will curdle. Garnish with cooked mush- rooms, carrots and celery, cut into little strips. Just before serving add a glass of vodka. Choose your own size of glass and have a happy time, and a jolly good June to you all. I am off to Ireland to feed some nuns in Galway. Perhaps I can swim with the dolphins — who knows?