RESPECT FOR WINE
SIR,—Who wants 'plonk' served like château- bottled claret? Not I. I just object to château- bottled claret being served like plonk. So I. agree with Mr. Ames, who has so kindly rephrased my article for those too indignant, like Mr. Denes, to see its meaning, and drink it at home, or at places where it will be properly treated (and where, of course, it is vastly more expensive).
It would be futile to unravel Mr. Denes's wrath- ful outpourings in order to plead that he has mis- understood and misquoted me. It would surely pro- voke another diatribe. But if he is content with the present state of affairs, where even plonk is not allowed to show its better side, then I can only surmise that he leads a remarkably sheltered life.
Let Mr. Ames and Mr. Denes, if they wish, regard me as a carping malcontent with ideas above their station, and all restaurateurs as altruistic angels. I remain convinced that, by their Panglossian com- placency, they will achieve no good, and contrive merely to provide support for indifference and malpractice.
99 Gower Street, WC1
LESLIE ADRIAN
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