31 AUGUST 2002, Page 55

Q. When invited to dinner by new friends,

should a vegetarian announce his `special needs' or just keep mute and, like Alderman Ptolemy Tortoise, bring some salad with him in a string bag?

D.B., London W8 A. It is important that a new friend should not associate the vegetarian with catering nuisance. Therefore, when the invitation is issued, the vegetarian should reply enthusiastically that he would love to come. adding, 'But please don't cook anything special for me. I always just eat whatever bread or salad is going. Or I can bring something. I promise you I'm happy with that.' In this way he avoids being presented with a plate accompli of something like paella or shepherd's pie where there is no room for manoeuvre. As the relationship matures, he can become more demanding about pre-ordering, moving

up, for example, from melted cheese on toast to cheese souffle, and even suggesting a risotto at the height of his popularity.