HERE WE ARE into the first week in Advent, the
weather still balmy as I write. So what did the powers that be arrange on the first Sunday of this season of prepara- tion for the coming of the Christ-child? They organised a ghastly parade of wob- blies, uglies and incredible vulgarities which brought poor London to a grinding halt in every direction. Never mind, we have the great St Francis Xavier to cele- brate this Saturday. He was commissioned to preach in India by Ignatius Loyola in 1540, and went on to Japan and then to China, where he died at the early age of 46 on the island of Shangchwan. This brings me to the most marvellous way of turning frozen peas into a delicacy, which I shall offer you as a new ond easy receipt to go with any of the leftover meats from the usual Christmas fare. I had dinner last night in the house of an Indian couple, Indar and Aruna Pasricha. It is the first time I have eaten Indian food privately, and what a difference it was. No violent curry tastes but everything delicately flavoured with suitable spices and herbs. The peas were a side-dish and the whole dinner was cooked by their faithful friend and helper, Prem Chand.
Prem's peas
21b packet of frozen peas 1 large onion I teaspoon chopped fresh ginger 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon chilli powder
1 teaspoon garam masala 11/2 teaspoons cumin powder
2 teaspoons salt 1 cup of roughly chopped fresh coriander
3 tablespoons corn oil Heat the oil in a large saucepan, tip in the finely chopped onion, and cook gently until soft but not browned; add the chopped ginger and fry together for about 3 minutes. Add all the spices and the salt — Prem had them all prepared on a plate in pretty little mounds — then stir in the coriander leaves. Stir and cook for a minute or so until all the flavours burst out and scent the air. Pour in the frozen peas, mix well with all the other ingredients and simmer with the lid on the pan until the peas are tender, about 6 minutes. Give them the odd stir now and then. I can't tell you how good they are cooked like this.
Another good thing to have up your sleeve for the baked meats is a salad of cele- riac mayonnaise. This is the one from that excellent food writer Marie-Pierre Moine.
Uteri thnoulade
1 lb of celeriac root, peeled and grated 2 tablesp000ns lemon juice sea salt and fresh ground black pepper '/4 pint home-made mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 2 small chopped gherkins 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
This is enough for 4 people but I usuallY make much more, so just multiply at will. Make your mayonnaise as usual then flavour with the mustard, vinegar, gherlans and parsley. Now blanch the celeriac; bring some lightly salted water to the boil in .3 saucepan, add the lemon juice and tip In the grated celeriac. Blanch for 1-2 minutes. Drain well and squeeze out any excess moisture with your hands, then spread the celeriac on a tea-cloth and pat dry. Adjust the seasoning of the mayonnaise whic.b should be quite piquant and peppery; stir!) the celeriac until well coated all over with the mayonnaise. Chill for at least 15 nun' utes, or longer if more convenient. JliSt before serving, stir again and sprinkle sortie more parsley on top. For a cleansing and fresh-tasting pudding after the rigours of suet and pastry, ru might try this mould.
Yoghurt, cheese and honey mould 6 oz curd cheese 11/2 lbs Greek yoghurt (Total or the like) 11/2 teaspoons finely grated lemon rind
4 tablespoons the best clear honey
Mix the curd cheese, the yoghurt and ttri lemon rind in a large bowl, beating ant° quite smooth. Place a clean tea-towel or tt layer of cheesecloth over a large sieve colander. Put the cheese mixture in II middle and let it drain into the mixing b°11 for 4 hours in some cool place. Transfe.r into another bowl, add the honey and 1111/‘ well. Line your mould or dish with daillP" ened cheesecloth and press in the miXttire' Level and leave to settle in the refrigera!°Iir for 1'12 hours. Turn out onto a dainty and surround with a delicious sauce 11'w sieved raspberries. If you are in Piccadilly this Saturclge morning pop into 16 Golden Square w.heire Anna Haycraft (Alice Thomas Ellis) will signing her book between 10.30 and 1.30.
Jennifer Paterson
Previous page
