3 JULY 1953, Page 24

Scones and Cakes

I sat down to tea at which we had little Welsh cakes, something like the oven scones of my youth. They were sweet and delicious when spread with butter. Every part of the country seems to have scones, bread or cakes of a particular kind of flavour to be had nowhere else. I thought oatcakes belonged to Scotland until I found they were also made in Wales, but the Welsh oatcake has a subtle, indefinable difference, just as the Lancashire potato cake is not the same thing as the potato scone of my youth and the pancakes my grandmother made were not the same kind of pancakes as those eaten in England on Shrove Tuesday. The variety of local foods is astonishing, cover- ing all kinds of dishes from black puddings and trotters to wonderful preparations such as the rum butter of the Westmorland and

Cumberland country. •