3 MARCH 1838, Page 17

MRS. TROLLOPE ' S VIENNA AND THE AUSTRIANS.

ALTHOUGH not devoid of matter and amusement, this publica- tion is the least successful of Mrs. TaciumPa's Travels. Literal, uninteresting, and heavy in its progress, it is not only made, but badly made. The first halt' of' the work, which consists of a tour from Stuttgart, through the Tyrol to Vienna, is unrelieved by in- cidistit in the occurrences, or character in the persons. Mrs. Tnen.t.oeu has not learning requisite to give the fulness of flesh and the spirit of life to the dry bones of local history ; she wants the knowledge and acumen to impart depth and interest to cri- ticism; and her sketches of landscape, though wellenough

tire when often repeated, from the artist's deficiency in sentiment and poetical feeling.

The second half of the work tells of her residence and doings at Vienna, and contains her judgment on the Austrians, from the Emperor downwards. It has more variety, substance, life, and conventional attraction, than the preceding narrative of her jour- ney; but not sufficient to affect the judgment we have pro- nounced. The causes of this failure are twofIdd. Vienna has often been described, at least in its externals, by persons equal if not superior to Mrs. TROLLOPE in the art of description. In the second place, the tourist was satisfied with the city, and all that it inhabit; and honey is less pungent than gall, especially when produced from the opis Trollophma. The Austrian government as"simple"—she suggests the term in preference to " absolute:" its administration is paternal, to those who never trouble their beads with politics. Making due allowances for climate and constitution, the Austrians are as jovial as " niggers;" where- as in England, France, and America, the people are speculat- ing on philosophy and politics, or abusing their betters. But, more enchanting than all, at Vienna Mrs. TROLLOPE mingled in the world of fashion as part and parcel of it. She was • asked to dine at the English Ambassador's; where Prince MWITERNICH "led her to dinner," and gave her the " ad- vantage" of his conversation during the repast. The Princess MensiaNicn invited her to a Christmas chinlren's party. Not- withstanding the demand for them, tickets were procured for her, by the kind exertions of Sir FREDERICK LAMB and MET- TERNICH, to see an installation of Knights of the Golden Fleece in a real imperial palace; and which she describes very much ill the Spirit of a milliner and tailor combined. She went to a tete and a ball at the Turkish Ambassador's, the first ever given at Vienna by a Mussulman; both of which she touches off pretty well. Till the capital filled, she mingled among the "bourgeoise aristocracy of Vienna," almost unconscious that there was any other. When the Austrian season came, she extended her visits to " la haute

(the real aristocracy:) and as, after "trying her hail'" on these respective classes, she plunges into a disquisition on "la creme," we conjecture that she was even admitted amongst that select body,—to be confident and conspicuoua being, apparently, the chief requisites for "la ci eine " as amongst our exclusives at borne.

These, and things like these, were lighter pleasures, which were varied by graver pursuits. She visited the " Prison in Leopold- stadt,"accompanied by "the administrator of the establishment, he Comte BACIH; whose arm she took ; and was delighted with the warmth and comfort of the place, though some Italian political offenders have found the Austrian dungeons net so pleasant. But one of her most arduous tasks was to draw comparisons between the government of Austria and her own country as it is,—for Mrs. TROLLOPE prefers the British constitution, as it existed when she first knew it, even to the paternal Imperial rule. It was one of her trials to listen, " more. in sorrow than in anger," to the man- ner in a hick Democratic Britain was now spoken of, and to hear prophetic statements as to our downfal.

The descriptions of the parties where Mrs. TROT.LOPE en- countered the great ones, are not always so rich as might have been expected. She seems to have been conscious of a foible in that direction, and to have kept herself under; just as people who are rarely at good dinners eat little at them lest they should forget themselves and eat too much. Her portrait of MEIVERNICH, WO, is deficient in breadth and character, and is not so full as some already transferred to our pages. We will therefore not seek for these points particularly, but take things as they strike us for

their own merits.

A WIT AT THE INSTALLATION.

There was one witticism that, I think, made the entire tour of our tribune, which was suggested by the relative positions of three of the Ambassadors who stood opposite to us,—namely, the Nuncio, the Ambassador of Louis Philip, and the Ambassador of the Sublime Porte. The Comte de St. Aulaire stood between the Pope's Nuacio and the Turk. " Voila le juste milieu," said some one ; and "juste milieu" was echoed round, while every eye was bent in the same direction.

RELIGIOUS LIBERALITY IN THE DIPLOMATIC WORLD.

The approach to the Ottoman dominions was gayly illuminated by coloured lamps, amidst which the words " Mahmoud Sultan" were conspicuous. The manner in which the company were ushered into the presence of the Ambassa- dor was evety thing that could be wished, being quite a la Stamboul. We bad to traverse two rooms, both of which bad a double row of Turkish attendants, who most Orientally veiled their eyes with their hands as the ladies passed. Nothing could be better. But before we made our exit through the same respectful train, the effect of these veiled eyes was greatly lessened, at least for me, by my having been told by a gentleman I found there, that, on all occasions of state galas, it was the custom for the Foreign Legations to assist each other by the loan of attendants ; and that upon the present occasion the Pope's Nuncio had obligingly furnished a considerable number, so that the veiled eyes were not really Turkish eyes after all.

AUSTRIAN PASSION FOR WALTZING.

A lady of our party, to whom I made some remark on the passion for dan- cing, which appeared so universally to pervade all ranks, replied to it by saying, that it was quite impossible I could as yet be aware how strong and how uni• versal it really was. In proof of this, she told me that such single women as were no longer young—a class often found among domestic servants—unable to renounce this dear delight, and knowing, poor souls ! that it was no longer likely they should be selected as partners, constantly, and without the least scruple in avowing it, purchased a waltzing companion before going to the ball.; his price depending partly on his dress and partly on his skill in the exercise. A good supper on these occasions was always part of the fee given ; which al- together, entrance included, often amounts to four or five florins. She men- tioned a middle aged cook, either in her own family or that of a friend, who pleaded the amount of this necessary expense as a reason why high wages were indispensable.

As Mrs. TROLLOPE rarely penetrates beyond the farms in which things are bodied forth, her pictures of the sights that she saw are somewhat of the heaviest ; for kinficititie.

queens, insobbloews,evaern4 ladies are forgotten in their dress or theirri though technical to us, may convey moo specific information4 our fair readers; so we will bring togener for them some glean. lags from the account of the installatien

The costumes displayed upon this occasn among the gentlemen Burp% both in elegance of outline and richness of ecoration, all I had expected tam. though I had beard much beforehand uf re great splendour of the Hun • ' nobles.

I really know nothing at once so gorgams and picturesque as the uniform of the Hungarian noble body-guard, with twir splendid silver accoutrements, their spotted furs, uncut, hanging at thei, backs, and their yellow morocco book The rich and beautiful skins which ney all carry, apparently in the very lupe in which they came off the animal give a most striking air of primitive ena almost barbarous magnificence.

The other, and more distineni.led Hungarian nobles, wore all of them the i •

remarkable national costune of their ',toad and stately country; and a fine set of men, or dresses betteNalca persons lated to set their peons off to advantage, am. not easily be imagined. Tie niilitary uniforms, also, are prodigiously superb. : and so various that it respell vary attentive study to become acquainted win; .' them all. The multiplierand brilliant decorations of Au-tiia are no trifling addition to the magniticee of their full-dress ; and whether it were from the effect of this very elfectivt toilet, or from their personal dignity and grace, I will not pretend to decide, let, whatever the cause, I certainly thought that I bagl never looked on so elega.t an assembly of men before. • * At length a flourish e* trumpets announced the approach of the Court, ma sent all the sabred, stared, awl cordoned loiterers back in thick ranks ageing the galleries ; leaving sole space than a moment before seemed possible, for the entrance of those to IA upon whom we were all assembled there. The first poems tem stepped forward into the space thus cleared vrasthe Empress of Austria her tall and elegant figure shown to great advantage by; dress of black veivv, very richly ornamented about the front and shoulders hy diamonds. A whie hat and feathers, with a brilliant bandeau of diamonds under it, formed hr head-dress; and a rich blond scarf, thrown over her very graceful shoulders prevented her dress from having so completely the air of ea evening toilet as i would have had without it. She walked up the room quite alone, bon ing vey graciously to the tribunes, and to the throng of courtiers marshalled on mit sides ot her below them. This sinykness has, perbapa something of inapproachable diguity in it that is imposing ; but I should have liked thething better if the arrangements had permitted some " priuce or knight of higl degree " to have led her to her place of honour ; and I am sure there must hose been dozens of chivalric hearts near her lamenting the necessity that so grams an Empress and so fair a dame should win her way alone. With most “utiblenched majesty," however, and with:no faltering step, the he. penal lady rsiched her seat. Then followed the tall and majestic Archilutchen Sophia, coport of the Archduke Francis, leading her two little boys—the eldest of thtin being presumptively " the hope of the fair state." Next to her canie the Arc'iglutchese Cletneotina, Princess of Stlerno, leading her fair little girl; and thm the very pretty young Archilutchess Maria Theresa, who Mt few weeks isto become Queen of Naples. The Prime of Salerno and the three young Archdukes followed, completing the party ;emitted to the ttibune of the Empress. A white.plumeil host of fair ladies folloved ; all, I think, in black velvet dresses. Soon atter they had taken their plates, another flourish of trumpets was heard from the musie•gallery; and three very significant taps on the floor from some official baton again cleared the way, making the crowd, which aapeared quite sufficient to fill the whole, shrink into about half the space. Then entered the Emperor, in his robes as Grand Master of the order, and his cortege, cmsisting upon this occasion wholly of Knights of the Golden Fleece, each fillowed by an elegant young page to bear his train ; and a more splendid line it would be impossible to look upon. The whole processiou, including the eeven new Knights, were all attired in the rich robes of the order ; while th.ir collars and caps, radiant with jewels, formed altogether as imposing a necttcle asoit is possible for drapeaaies aud de:orations tto produce.

We have certaidy not improved, within the last century and a quarter, 111 the art of imaginiig or of fabricating a grave and princely dress for a grave Id princely ceremony No robes of modern days can compare with the gold sod crimson waves tha floated round these noble knights. Even the ermined robs of our Peers must deld in dignity of outline to the draperies of the Golden Fleece. The mateial is crimson velvet, richly embroidered with gold, nod lined with white sain ; but it is in the me;estic and flowing forms into which the robe and the clak worn over it throw themselves that the superiority cm- sista. Had John Kmble seen an installation of Knights of the Golden Flews he would most certanly have got up a piece to which the ceremony should hats been incidental. Ih would have worn its robes and its cap too, so as to bate done more justice to them than my pen can do. For the cap is by no meant to be omitted in the history of this magnificent costume : it is of the same dark and massive material IS the dress, with a singular drapery descending from it, that, if suffered to fal to its full extent, would reach the knees. It 610 the management of this srange appendage to the head-dress that the greatest dif- ference is perceptible ir the bearing and deportment of the different individual, that constitute this note body. The jewels, it is true, with which all the ape are adorned, may differ suth in brilliancy of arrangement and in intrinsicvalor; the same too may be Ball of the resplendent collar.; but all this is overlooked. and forgotten while the e:e follows the easy dignity and grace of one, or the per- vous puzzled awkwardnea of another. I Presume the knights of King Philip the Good were tall and stalwwt heroes, who could wear armour as lightly. IIS I shepherd's cloak ; for, mot assuredly, the dress provided for them requires noble stature and a graceftt mien to give it good effect.

Among those we saw tt.day, were many stately and graceful figures, wlio looked very much as if natue had prepared them for the place they held. The new Knights were of coursethe gazed-at of all eyes ; and, fortunately for the perfect effect of the ceremons, the majoiity of them were tall and handsome men. Among these, the printely Liechtenstein, the graceful, handsome Adolphe

of Schwartzenberg, and the steely, dignified Hoyos, Grand Veneur to the Em- peror, were among the must renarkable. The juvenile Archdukes, too, though both of them too young to hav fully attained the firm dignity of mitollood, sustained their massive and unwonted garments very gracefully.