SIMON HOGGART
If you’ve never been there, get yourself to Waddesdon Manor, the vast French château in one of the loveliest parts of Buckinghamshire built by Ferdinand Rothschild as his weekend place. Here, surrounded by more rare and beautiful objects than you are likely to see any where outside a national gallery — Gainsboroughs, Reynolds, de Hooch, Sèvres and Meissen, even George III’s silver dinner service — he entertained prime ministers and royalty. The food was exquisite and the wines came from the great Rothschild estates, most notably Lafite. Ferdinand himself was a teetotaller and, as his guests guzzled, he contented himself with water and dry toast.
This is not a mistake you will make on your visit, since in the excellent restaurant you can try some of the dishes that were served to Queen Victoria (at one dinner she had three helpings of the beef) and the wines, which come from every Rothschild estate around the world. Last year their mini-bar was the most successful we’ve ever had, and now I’ve selected four more bottles which, I think, are just as exciting.
First, the whites. The Rothschild own brand Viognier from the Pays d’Oc 20041 is lovely fruity, peachy, slightly herbal, with a real zest and zip to it — perfect for summer aperitifs or with picnics and salads. Christopher Campbell at Waddesdon has brought it down to under a fiver — splendid value.
The Baronne Charlotte 20012 is a slightly unusual Graves. It was named by the Baroness Philippine in honour of her forebear, who was an artist, musician and benefactor, and it’s made from Sauvignon Blanc, which gives it elegance and backbone, and from Muscadelle, which makes it full and fragrant, even luscious, which I don’t think overstates the case. It’s not cheap, but it is very, very good. The Vin de Pays d’Oc Merlot 20033 is Waddesdon’s best-selling wine, and you can see why. It’s soft, velvety and fruity, with the nice smoky undertones you find in a good Merlot. Again, Chris Campbell has brought the price down to under £5.
Finally, a real star. The Los Vascos Grande Réserve Cabernet Sauvignon 20014 is made by the Lafite Rothschild people in Chile. Basically it’s an absolutely first-rate claret, made from pre-phylloxera vines, sold at New World prices. If this was a Bordeaux it would cost at least twice as much and probably more — it is fabulous for under a tenner. All delivery is free, and there are two sample cases you can try. __p
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