4 MAY 1996, Page 26

Self-promotion

Sir: It was with no little disappointment that I noticed in your issue of 20 April yet another offering from Justin de Blank (Restaurants). Again Mr de Blank huffs and puffs at length with breathtaking pom- posity against the excellent Nigella Lawson. Sadly, this extension of the saga helps Mr de Blank — as he himself so delicately says, `it puts bums on seats'.

Holland has not really made a major con- tribution to cuisine in the civilised world. It is thus to Mr de Blank's credit that he has made something of a name for himself and that he is proud of his origins. However, before he endeavours to patronise English tastes, he should remember that for several decades he has been best known for employing a never-ending line of chattering Sloanes to sell, to what may well be their own aunts, outrageously priced sausages (too small), quiches (too bland) and sausage rolls (far too doughy).

Simon Byrne

Casa La Cumbre, Pedramala, Benissa,