AS WE are still in the middle of Paschal- tide,

which continues until the Saturday after Pentecost, the saints aren't getting much of a look-in, though I see they have moved the Annunciation to 7 April this year, which will make the Christ-child a rather premature baby on Christmas Day. This week has the feasts of Hugh of Greno- ble, Mary the Egyptian, a reformed prosti- tute, Richard of Chichester, Isidore of Seville and Vincent Ferrer — a good cos- mopolitan lot.

Last month, Clarissa Dickson Wright gave a book-signing party for the republica- tion of my Feast Days in her excellent The Cook's Book Shop in Edinburgh's Grass Market, a lovely place and the party went with a Highland swing thanks to all Claris- sa's efforts and friends. There was a charm- ing lady there who wanted a receipt for net- tle soup, as the season is right. I think her name was May, but I have lost the paper I wrote it down on; anyhow here goes with information gathered from You Are What You Eat by Kirsten Hartvig and Dr Nic Rowley. Nettles should be harvested on a fine day, in the morning after the sun has dried off the dew. The young tops should be plucked before they flower using gloves and scissors. They can be used fresh or dried. Wash the nettle tops well and boil in a little water for about 20 minutes, then chop finely and use with other vegetables in soups, stews and pasta dishes. If you just want soup, proceed as for a spinach or sorrel soup, thickening with flour or potato and adding a good amount of thick cream before serving. Try this curious offering.

Scottish nettle pudding

A carrier-bagful of young nettle tops, well washed 1 leek, trimmed and sliced 1 head of broccoli, chopped 3 oz white rice

Mix all the ingredients together, season with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper, and place in a muslin bag or thin tea towel. Tie well. Boil in well-salted water for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are cooked. Remove from the cloth and serve with a savoury sauce or gravy as a side dish to accompany anything you fancy. You can make nettle tea by pouring boil- ing water over two fresh tops per cup and allowing it to infuse for 5 to 10 minutes, then strain. Very good for you, have three cups a day. You can also use it as a final rinse to give hair an extra shine.

I went to a terrific lunch at the Four Sea- sons Hotel, Park Lane, where the Earl and Countess of Camarvon were presiding and Mark Greenfield, the Highclere Castle chef, was cooking dishes from their second book of receipts. Everything was delicious, so I thought you might like to sample this pudding from the book.

Upside-down pear pudding

8 oz plain flour plus 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg

pinch ground cloves 2 eggs, beaten 6 oz black treacle 8 fluid oz milk 8 oz melted butter 4 ripe pears, peeled, cored and quartered For the base: 4 oz butter 8 oz soft brown sugar

Pre-heat the oven to Gas 4, 350F, 180C. To make the base, place the sugar and but- ter into a saucepan over a low heat. Once melted, turn up the heat and allow to bub- ble for a couple of minutes. Pour into a 10- inch ovenproof dish. Arrange the pears on the bottom of the dish rounded side down. Thoroughly mix the rest of the ingredients together and pour over the pears. Bake for one hour in the lower section of the oven. Test with a sharp, pointed knife which should come out clean; if it has raw mix sticking to it, the pudding will need further cooking. Allow to cool slightly before turn- ing it out carefully onto some gorgeous serving plate. Eat with lightly whipped dou- ble cream or some very good vanilla ice- cream. The black treacle is the inspired ingredient, I think.

If you prefer your pears in a more natu- ral state, try:

The Milford salad

4 ripe pears, peeled and quartered 1 bunch of watercress For the dressing: 4 tablespoons olive oil

11/2 tablespoons cider vinegar

3 oz roquefort cheese freshly ground black pepper

Mash the roquefort cheese in a bowl with a fork. Add the other ingredients and mix well — a quick whizz in a food processor seems to work. Adjust the seasoning, remembering that roquefort is very salty. Lay the pears on a bed of watercress, cover with the dressing and serve. Lord Camar- von was taught to make this by his French governess, Mlle Marcelle Huc, or 'Doll' to the family, so bon appetit to you all.