SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
God bless us, every one
Auberon Waugh
THE LAST Spectator Wine Club offer of the year, from Lay & Wheeler in Colch- ester, traditionally offers mixed cases for paupers and plutocrats. However, the pres- sure at Christmas time is always for better, grander wines which are also more expen- sive, so I have decided to have three mixed cases. The first, for genuine paupers, con- sists of six bottles each of the two cheapies, red and white, costing only £3.92 the bottle. Sensitive paupers may feel they are being patronised, but I would not dream of offer- ing it if I did not think these two wines the Cent Vignes red at £3.69 and the Mon- tagne Noire sauvignon at £4.15 - were exceptionally good wines, as well as being extremely cheap.
The 1997 Montagne Noire sauvignon(1) from France's deep south (12 per cent by vol., £4.14 reduced from £4.77) has a good, strong, fresh smell and gooseberry taste which seems much more expensive than it is. No sugar but nothing acidic, either. Rec- ommended.
A terrible price jump to the Moa Ridge sauvignon(2) at £6.25 (down from £6.64, 12.5 per cent by vol.), but I have drunk many New Zealand sauvignons, nearly all of them good, and this one is a corker. Very pale with a ripe, lemony smell, a slightly green taste but utterly delicious; riper gooseberries than above. Not aggressive, as some New Zealanders can be, but fresh, full and beautiful.
How dare an Australian ask £8.95 for his chardonnay (down from £10.04, if you please) when Australian chardonnay has come to be regarded as a bit of a joke by wine snobs? On this occasion, the wine snobs are wrong. Penley Estate(3), in Coon- awarra, has produced a seriously good wine despite its rich smell - a deep and magnifi- cent experience which knocked all its white burgundy competitors for six. The wine- maker, Kym (sic) Tolley, writes on the back label: 'Experience was earnt [sic], tradition was given, but my wine reflects what I feel.' Obviously he is a genius.
Now for the reds. The Les Cent Vignes, yin de pays de l'Aude is not only a stupen- dous bargain at £3.69 (down from £4.13) but, as I have indicated, it is also a very good wine. Made from merlot and carignan grapes, it weighs in at 12 per cent alcohol, soft, full-bodied and very easy to drink. Wonderful smell for the price. Highly rec- ommended.
The 1998 Bush Vine Pinotage from Wellington, South Africa at £5.85 (reduced from £6.45) is more alcoholic at 13.5 per cent. One might suppose it would be too young to drink, but these pinotages develop fast. The wine-maker advises us to 'look for succulent fruit (cranberry and ripe cherry) and spice (clove) in this full-flavoured wine and enjoy now with lamb, poultry, cheese pizza and pasta'. I quote him (or her) because I have lost my tasting notes, but remember enjoying it at the time.
The panel disagreed on Hollick's 1995 Shiraz/Malbec/Cabernet(6) from Coonawar- ra, some finding it slightly sharp, but I liked it very much on first tasting, reckoning it even a trifle sweet. Perhaps the second time was less impressive, but we chose it, never- theless, out of some 15 reds. Punters might be well advised to try it in the economy mixed case first. It weighs in at 12.5 per cent and the price of £6.65 is reduced from £7.77.
Next a rather expensive rioja reserva(7). The Murua 1994 was so much better than the other riojas I tasted that I decided to go for it, at £7.90, down from £8.83 (13 per cent alcohol), and the panel greeted it ecstatically as a seriously good wine, fault- less and lovely except for its price. Nice dark ruby colour and beautifully made - I would break into verse if it were £1 cheaper.
Next, back to Hollick for a 1994 cabernet merlot(8) at £8.35 (down from £9.65) which caused one highly experienced member of the panel to write that 'many people, not looking for subtlety, will conclude this is as good as wine can be'. Very dark, black-red colour, lovely sweet merlot smell. It weighs in at 13.5 per cent by volume.
Finally, for those seeking greater subtlety, a mild, gentlemanly (12.5 per cent alcohol) upper-class, dignified, traditional merlot taste from this 1995 Domaine de Bourgue- neuf 1995 Pomerol(9). Many would suppose it is too young to drink, but it isn't, and in fact I find it hard to see how it can improve. These qualities don't come cheap, of course, and although Lay & Wheeler have knocked a generous £1.89 off the list price of £11.74, at £9.85 it will still cause heart-searching. This is the sacrifice we have to make.
Previous page
