SIMON HOGGART
oodness, Rhone wines are popu lar these days, and it's easy to see why. Rich, full, spicy and velvety, they have a warmth and generosity that some allegedly greater wine regions lack. I'm sure you'll want to snap up this tremendous selection of Rhone (and near Rhone) wines from Graham ' Mitchell, a sprig of the famous El Vino Mitchell family.
The region is, of course, best known for its reds, but I loved the white Laurus Cotes du Rhone 2002('), which is made half from the Roussanne grape and half from the very fashionable Viognier. It's a very elegant wine with a lovely golden colour, and it brings the savour of nuts and fruit and toast and oak. The two grape varieties are fermented separately, with part of the Roussanne being kept `sur lie', or on the dregs, which sounds nasty but adds liberally to the flavour. This will keep a few years, but there's no reason why you shouldn't glug it back now.
Now the reds. Gabriel Meffre, who makes Laurus, also makes this splendid Cotes du RhOne 2000(2). It is just over half Grenache and just under half Syrah, producing that concentrated, heady, perfumed A flavour which marks a top-class Rhone. Graham has knocked a kindly £15 off the delivered case price for Spectator readers.
The Vieux Lazaret 2000(s) is from the Cotes du Ventoux, an appellation just east of the Rhone valley, sheltered from the mistral and producing slightly lighter but still delectable wines. This was a fabulous vintage, and you'll love the smoky whiff and the taste of herbs and forest fruits.
Finally, a quite remarkable wine: a Gigondas from the Domaine de Longue Toque 2000(a). This too is made by Gabriel Meffre. I hate to quote the American wine guru Robert Parker (mention his name and many British wine folk curl up in pain like slugs under salt), but sometimes you need over-the-top tasting notes: 'Intriguing perfume of violets, redcurrants, blackberries and minerals ... sexy flavours with floral infused fruits ... a hedonistic headturner.' And he gives it up to 92 points, a very high rating indeed.
Here's the best news: whereas Americans have to pay £17.65 a bottle, thanks to Graham's discount you can buy it for a mere £12.15. Fabulous. Delivery is free (except in Wales and the Scottish Highlands — ring for quotes).
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