THE WILD FRUIT GARDEN.
[TO THE EDITOR OF TIM " SPIICTATOR."1
SIR,—In reading the interesting article headed "The Wild Fruit Garden" in your issue of August 1st, I was struck with the writer's evident ignorance of the fact that, though the rowan (in certain parts of the Highlands roddan) berry is usually left for the thrushes to feast on, yet it is known to certain careful Scotch housewives and epicures how delicious a jelly is made from its juice, a jelly many find far superior to red-currant as a relish with hare or venison. The sight of a rowan-tree in the garden of one who does not realise his good fortune always stirs me to envy, and gladly would I give in exchange my mulberry-tree, if that were possible. I have always been a dabbler in cookery, from the days when as a small boy I experimented in toffee to the days when as a student- of chemistry I made many a savoury mess in the laboratory, with Mattien-Williams's "Chemistry of Cookery" not far from my elbow. So I write now that the ignorance of these fortunate ones may be dispelled, and that they may enter more fully into the enjoyment of their own. Here is the recipe :—Strip the berries from the stalks into a stewpan. Boil, with frequent stirring, for sixty minutes. Filter through a jelly-bag. Then to every pound of juice add a pound of preserving-sugar (pure cane is best.), and boil till the mixture begins to set. Test from time to time by setting aside a little in a saucer. If the stiffening is a little too long delayed, add the merest pinch of shredded gelatine to an ordinary stew- panful. Avoid this addition if possible. This jelly is excellent as a flavouring for others, especially apple. May those that try this recipe remember me !—I am, Sir, &a.,
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