6 FEBRUARY 1993, Page 23

D is for . . .

Sir: I am slightly surprised at your corre- spondent Janine di Giovanni (All Systeme D at the Holiday Inn', 23 January) being unfamiliar with the French concept of le systeme D, but much more so at the French press corps' ignorance of its origin. Se debrouiller (for which the 'D' stands) is an untranslatable mixture of string-pulling, street wisdom, problem-solving and circum- venting bureaucracy, often with overtones of barter.

A Burgundian farmer I know has employed a branch of le systeme for years. He exchanges with a vigneron five tons of well-rotted manure for 50 bottles of Gevrey-Chambertin annually.

It is central to the French way of life, which is doubtless why they have a nation- ally recognised name for it.

Merlin Holland

115 Broomwood Road, London SW11