1 More Fun and Game
PHEASANT shooting began this month so I shall continue in the same vein as last month's cooking of game. I was reminded of an old favourite by Patrick O'Connor in the Literary Review. It is a classical Nor- mandy receipt for pheasant cooked with apples, Calvados and cream and very good it is too. I reckon the dish to be plenty for six to eight people as there is no wastage and the sauce is extremely rich. However, appetites differ: see what you think.
Normandy Pheasant
a brace of pheasants 2 apples (Cox's or the like) 1 teaspoon of brown sugar 1/4 pint Calvados 1 pint of thick cream salt and pepper
I know Calvados is very expensive, the only consolation being that it is more expensive in France at last sighting. Some- times you can find a half-bottle which softens the blow a bit, but it is so delicious in any form I think it is worth while. Otherwise use brandy, but it is obviously not the same. Peel and core the apples, slice into rings and fry in two ounces of the butter and the sugar until golden brown and slightly caramelised. Melt the rest of the butter in a large flame-proof casserole big enough to contain the two birds. Brown the creatures all over, turning and coating with the butter. Cover with the lid and place in a preheated oven Gas 5, 375F, 190C, for 40 minutes. Remove the birds and carve them into good size pieces and lay them in a shallow oven or gratin dish. Make sure to pick every little piece of flesh from the carcasses. Put the legs at either end. Scrape any morsels from the carving into the casserole juices, heat until bub- bling, then pour the warmed Calvados into the pan. Set fire to it (preferably with a long taper to avoid singed eyelashes), roll the casserole around and around keeping the flame alight as long as possible, add the cream and continue cooking over a moder- ate heat until the sauce thickens; keep stirring with a wooden spoon, season with fresh ground pepper and salt. Place the apple pieces on the carved pheasant flesh which you have been keeping warm, then pour the sauce all over them and serve. If you prefer you can serve the apple separ- ately in a little dish. Have some plain boiled rice to which has been added some fried celery and mushrooms or, better still,
use wild rice which you can get mixed with plain rice, courtesy of Uncle Ben. This and a salad of watercress and endive is all you require I think.
There is a very good new book, Poultry and Game by Ian McAndrew, published by Pyramid, which enabled me to pluck and draw a partridge to perfection with the aid of the illustrations, so I will give you his excellent dish of partridges as the apes should be coming into the woods now if you are clever enough to find them. Otherwise you can use the dried ones.
Roast Partridge with Cepes 4 young partridges
4 slices of streaky, rindless bacon 12 oz of cepes 2 teaspoons of oil 3/4 oz of unsalted butter 2 fluid oz dry white wine 4 fluid oz of Madeira 8 fluid oz of chicken or pheasant stock 3 fluid oz of veal stock
Lightly season the birds inside and out. Cut each slice of bacon in two, wrap around the birds and tie with string. Trim off any root and brush off any dirt from the cepes but don't wash them, remove the caps to one side and dice the stalks. Heat the oil and 1/2 oz of the butter in a roasting pan. Sear the birds in the hot fat on all sides. Place in a preheated oven at Gas 8, 450F, 230C, for four minutes on one side then four minutes on the other side. Remove from oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes, then carve the legs and breasts from all of the birds and keep warm. Cut the bacon into dice. Roughly chop the carcasses. Melt the remaining butter in the roasting pan and lightly brown the bones, pour off the fat, add the white wine and reduce over a high heat until almost gone, add the Madeira and reduce by half, pour in the stocks and simmer until about 6 fluid ounces remain. Return the birds to the oven for 2 minutes to reheat. Brush the apes' caps with melted butter, season and grill on both sides for 3 minutes or so. Pour the sauce through a fine strainer or muslin into a clean pan and return it to the boil, add the diced stalks and bacon, simmer for 1 minute. Place a grilled cap on each plate, dead centre. Lay two legs and two breasts on top then cover with sauce. Exquisite.
Jennifer Paterson
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