CRI DE CREVECtEUR
Sig,—It broke my heart to see a woman with the French name of Crevecceur begin a recipe with the very un-French 'melt one ounce of margarine,' and to see Leslie Adrian's civilised and helpful page thus encouraging the English in their belief that any substitute is good enough to cook with. The difference in price between one ounce of butter and one ounce of margarine is about three
farthings: we all know what butter is, but nobody will tell us clearly ancl completely what goes into margarine.
I know that the middle classes are poor—per- sonally, being out of work, I am very poor indeed— but can it really be that people who buy the Spectator and make sauce poivrade (for grills and roasts, it says—dearest of cuts!) cannot afford to spend three farthings on knowing what they are eating?—Yours faithfully,
CYRIL RAY
The Atheneum, Pall Mall, SW 1
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