NOTES OF AN ATTACHE IN SPAIN. * IF the author of
this volume has any pretension to the office of an attaché, the berth must be an easy one enough. Excursion, izing, sight-seeing, seeing "life," and learning dancing, are about the range of duty as exhibited in these pages ; for the study of Spanish, which the author very properly began on arriving at Madrid, should rather have preceded the appointment. It may, however, be doubted whether the " Attaché in Spain" is really a protege of the Foreign Office, although we can believe a good deal about the ineptitude of that department in the choice of men sent abroad to lie for the good of their country.
The travels the Attaché has recorded are extensive. He begins with Bayonne, and, crossing the Mediterranean, ends at Tangier and Tetuan. The intermediate places which he saw, by a more elaborate mode than while the diligence stopped for meal-times, are the Escurial, Segovia, Toledo, Cadiz, Xerez, Malaga, Granada, Valencia, and Barcelona. Except Madrid and Seville, where he remained some time, the young diplomatist's mode of proceeding was pretty uniform. He first settled himself at an inn, and pro- vided as well as he could for carnal comforts ; he then engaged a valet-de-place, and sallied out to see the town. If he stopped long enough he made excursions in the neighbourhood, and delivered his letters ; if not, he pushed on to the next place, and went through the same round.
To ask why many people travel, is something like asking why they dine or dance, or do countless other things to lighten those heavy burdens of the fashionable mob—time and life. But they whose vocation it is to read new books, have a right to ask why they publish their travels ? The only diplomatic trait in the At- taché is the manner in which he avoids all traces of his calling. He improves the maxim of the great master, and not only uses speech to conceal his thoughts, but to conceal the subjects he ought to be thinking about. Original notions upon public affairs he has not, and we fear is not likely to have ; but the topic at second- hand seems not to have crossed his mind. He was presented to the Queen, he was at a ball at the Queen Dowager's, and he dined (with some fifty others) with General Narvaez. His closest ap- proach to general politics is to decline repeating scandals aboui the Queen ; his highest range of political observation is to trace faculty of command in the countenance and voice of his verit- able Amphitryon. Nor has the Attaché any pursuit apart from his profession. He sees what there is to be seen, or at least what his valet-de-place shows him ; but he has no particular pursuit-- nothing which stimulates the mind to increased attention or calls forth latent knowledge. A factory, a prison, a prospect, a ruin, as entertainment, or the Spanish equivalent to the " dignity " ball of a Nigger land, are all the same to our traveller. He welcomes it as many people welcomed the Great Exhibition, as a new relief from their own thoughts, or rather from their own vacuity ; but to see anything in what passes before him, beyond what it suggests to any other mind, is not in his nature or acquirements. As he is a goodnatured and satisfied person, he does not, like Sterne's Smel, fungus, find "all barren "; but he contrives to make his book pretty much so. Had Spain never been visited before, his account of sights, summary of antiquities, and curt superficial description of manners, that have been more fully told by his predecessors or in guide-books, would have furnished information. As it is, the matter is commonplace, and the manners much like the matter- But it is all in good faith : the Attaché has not the set purpose of making a book.
The oases in the Spanish desert are few and far between : the national dish, the olla podrida, is one.
"Upon my entry into Spain, the oil and garlic, so freely made use of by the national cooks, nearly forced me into starvation ; but by degree my fas- tidiousness vanished, and I became even bold enough, before a fortnight had expired, to taste, without dissatisfaction, the celebrated 'olla podricla,' so universally admired in every province of the Peninsula. This is a sublime compound, in the preparation of which all the ingenuity and genius of a Spanish cook are brought into requisition ; his reputation is staked upon this die, and upon it is based whatever claims he may entertain of immortality. Its ingredients are multifarious, and the mode of mixing them elaborate and difficult. Two earthenware pots are generally used, though one is sometimes made to answer the purpose. In the former case, the different meats, such as a chicken, a slice of beef, and a piece of bacon, are put together into one of the vessels and boiled for a short time over the fire ; they are then allowed to simmer for several hours. In the other pot or pan the various vegetables are collected. These consist of beets, carrots, beans, peas, onions, celery, garlic, lettuces, and long pepper ; these are likewise permitted to sunnier for four or five hours. Finally, the savoury contents of both utensils are emptied into an enormous dish, the meat being placed in the centre and the vegetables built up around like the wall of a city. It is then ready to be placed upon the table, and worthy of being devoured by monarchs."
The manufacture of arms at Toledo sustains its old reputation :
" it is a sword of Spain, the ice-brook's temper." and "During the morning we visited several interesting churches, hospitals,.!t convents, which afforded us much satisfaction ; and in the afternoon walked. out to the Fabrics de las arms,' the celebrated sword-manufactory. This _ establishment is situated on the banks of the Tagus, at a distance of nearly
• Notes of an Attache in Spain in 1850. Published by Bentley.
two miles from the city, and was at the period of our visit in the full tide of operation. The weapons here made are, it ia wall known, of extraordinary character, and are particularly remarkable for their elasticity and exquisite temper. Some specimens possess the former quality in so astonishing a de- gree, that they may be coiled up and packed in an exceedingly small com- pass, without experiencing any perceptible injury from the contortion ; and so extremely hard are their points, that they may be powerfully dashed against a atone wall with impunity. The Toledo blades have had a wonderful fame from time immemorial, and I do not believe that those which are now con- structed at the manufactory are at all inferior to any which have been made
i
in past years. Great care is taken in tempering the metal, for which the waters of the Tagus are supposed to possess peculiar virtues. The steel passes through an infinite number of gradual transitions, until it reaches its final singe of development, and the utmost caution is maintained in heating and cooling the metaL Carlos conducted us through every department of the es- tablishment, and expatiated so learnedly upon the modus operandi, as not a little to surprise us at his rare intelligence. Thence we went into the Arme- ria, or showroom, where every variety of sword, pike, and battle-axe which had ever been in use in Spain, were collected and arranged in a tasteful manner."
The newest thing in the way of social description is the Attaché's dinner with the then Prime Minister.
" Soon after our presentation at Court we were invited to dine with Gene- ral Narvaez, the Prime Minister of the Queen. The entertainment was in every respect superb, and worthy of the distinguished personage by whom it 'was given. Everything was in the French style, and of the most superior quality. Though I made an exceedingly moderate repast, scarcely touching an article that was placed before me, yet I venture to say that my plate was changed at least thirty times. The service was of the most beautiful china, while the knives, forks, and spoons of the dessert, were of solid gold. The general effect of the table was both that of taste and elegance. The ban- queting-room was illuminated by an infinite number of candles, and though unpretending in its decorations, was nevertheless very rich and appropriate. The conduct of our host was characterized by a remarkable degree of good breeding. Though no toasts were given or beside drunk, yet conviviality and lively conversation prevailed, and the affair passed off to the entire sa- tisfaction of every one present. The guests on this occasion numbered about fifty, the greater part of whom were Spaniards and officers of the Government. General Narvaez played the agreeable in a gentlemanly manner; though lie never for a moment departed from the high dignity due to his position, or the proud and lofty bearing so eminently characteristic of the man. In his personal appearance he is not above the middle height, rather inclined to stoutness, and possessing a stern and impressive counte- nance, set in a frame of raven whiskers, and lit up with a pair of keen and darkly-glittering eyes. He looks like a man of indomitable courage and changeless; will ; and seems admirably calculated to win the confidence and excite the admiration of a rude and resolute soldiery. Though not en ora- tor, yet he has a deep and full-toned voice, which arrests the attention and falls upon the ear like the low booming of distant artillery. Since he has been in power the condition of public affairs in Spain has been gradually im- proving; and a greater degree of security to life and property maintained. He is a strict disciplinarian, a shrewd and accomplished statesman, a wily diplomatist, and a man of strong and well-balanced intellect Of all the leading men in Spain, he appears the best adapted for the elevatedpost which he now occupies, and which I trust he will be enabled to hold for a long series of years.
The Spanish tongue and Spanish dancing were, as has been said, the author's serious studies in Madrid. The language was attacked by self and Mend. The fandango, &c. were pursued in a got-up class of eight other gents, chiefly English and American ; but they wanted partners, and managed thus.
"Things can be done in Spain with propriety that would be supremely ridiculous if attempted in any other land. Stimulated with this idea, and bearing in mind the love of adventure which characterizes the Spaniard; we applied without hesitation to our excellent professor, to relieve us from the unfortunate dilemma in which we were placed. He listened to us with patience, but totally denied the possibility of his being able to afford us any relief. Not so, however, with our worthy young 4 fiddler,' to whom we like- wise made known the secret cause of our distress. He immediately eased s of our anxiety, by lading that he would endeavour to arrange matters to our entire satisfaction. What a glorious prospect—what a charming vista opened before us I Our musician had_a young and beautiful sister, to whom he straightway unfolded the character of our communication, at the same time asking her advice on the subject. As amiable and goodnatured as him- self, she instantly expressed her willingness to exert her influence among her own companions and friends, in order to induce them to accede to the wishes we had expressed, and thus prevent the calamits, with which we were threatened, and of which we had so seriously complained. The success of her endeavours was strikingly manifest on the following evening, when she presented herself at the ball-room with as enchanting a body of Spanish girls as the eyes of man ever rested upon. The damsels, though of course not belonging to the aristocracy of the capital, were quite as respectable as could be selected from any grade of the metropolis ; and were accompanied by their parents and guardians, who kept a watch- ful eye upon their movements, and seemed pleased with the attentions we bedewed upon their youthful wards. They were aware that we were foreigners, with only a slight knowledge of the language, or otherwise this pleasant intrigue of ours could never have been accomplished. "We now progressed rapidly in the dancing art, and soon became masters of all the chief dances of the country."
Previous page
