8 MARCH 2003, Page 23

FOR some people, Burgundy is the only wine. Everything else

is alcoholic grape juice. And a great Burgundy, red or white, has a style and flair and perfume and finesse and depth and richness which can't be found anywhere else.

On the other hand, it might cost more than £2,000 a bottle. If you can find it, that is; even at that price the great names, such as La Tache and Romanee-Conti, are hugely oversubscribed.

So I'm delighted that the mini-bar can offer four wines from Irma Fingal-Rock, a small hut growing Monmouth wine merchant, whose Tom Innes (Irma's husband) spends much of his time travelling round Burgundy, finding small domaincs, buying as much as he can, and selling it at astonishingly reasonable prices. With another 10 per cent knocked off the list price and all delivery free, these are tremendous bargains. Real luxury for a very modest price.

Aligote is the poor sister of the Chardonnay grape, and the name can mask a thin, acidic, dreary wine, sold to spotty youths who want to impress dates in Chinese restaurants. Not this. The 2000 Domaine Gachot-Monot"' has a lovely fresh, fruity flavour, real style, and is excellent value at a fraction over a fiver.

The Hawes COtes de Beaune 1999 from Michel Serveau'' is a mere £6.75 a bottle, yet it has a honeyed, mellow flavour allied to a flintiness and strength which distinguishes a wine at a much higher price.

Now two lovely reds. The Bourgogne 2000 from Thierry Poulleau in Volnay'. is rich, dark and concentrated, with that characteristic earthy perfume of, again, a more expensive wine. A delicious snip at £6.58.

Finally a gorgeous, silky Hautes COtes de Nuits 'Clos des Dames Huguettes' 1999'4' from Philippe Gavignet. 'Resonant!' said one of the many kind friends who helped me with the tasting, and, pretentious though that sounds, I think he was right. Once again, wonderful value at £8.58.

There's also a sample case containing three of each wine, for just £81.25.