26 JANUARY 1962, page 20

Vin Du Pays

'It y CYRIL RAY T depends how native you want to go. There are Frenchmen, and plenty of them, who drink porto as an aperitif, and pretty old ruby at that. There are Americans,......

Truffle Country

By JEAN ROBERTSON A LONG the rich middle reaches of the Dordogne, before it flows away to the vine- yards of St. Emilion and Pomerol, lies a lush, contented land of plump geese,......