WALKS AND TALKS OF A FAII3IEE IN ENGLAND.'
No other country than America could have produced the author of "Walks and Talks of an American Farmer in England." An
English agriculturist who would cross the Atlantic solely for the acquisition of practical knowledge and the indulgence of a liberal curiosity, and who possessed the qualifications to describe his journey as well as profit by it, would be a man of a higher social standing—a "gentleman farmer." He would be more re- served in his proceedings,. more chary of passing acquaintances, and much more fastidious in his choice of entertainment and ac- commodations, when any choice was left him. Perhaps even a gentleman farmer, certainly the mass of farmers, would want the literary aptitude, ihe fluency of style, and the faculty of observa- tion mingled with reflection, which distinguish Fred. Law Olm- sted, and which more or less characterize most of his countrymen, —the result of a widespread system of education, a universal pas- sion for cheap reading, and the habit of having something to say on public affairs. The author of Eothen remarks that "the Os- manlees speak well "; rhetoric, in the absence of professional ora- tors, becoming a necessity of life and sometimes life itself. In America, it would seem, everybody is fast becoming a writer— good, bad, or indifferent, as may be, but capable of turning off an article or a series of articles to form a book; an effort which to many in the older countries of Europe still seems a something be- yond mere natural powers—an impassable gulf to any but the gifted.
Mr. Olmsted has personal qualities in addition to a national habit. Ile is a man of worldly experience ; having, like Dana, Merivale, and several other young Americans, made a sea voyage or two, and shaken off some home-made prejudices. He has a power of judicious observation, and of equally judicious reflection upon what he sees. A specific purpose in travelling not only gave him distinct objects to inquire about, but threw him into the way of a class of persons with whom mere travellers do not come in contact; this last being assisted by the American disposition to in- quire anything of anybody,—a peculiarity of his countrymen that i Mr. Olmsted s not free from. An occasional disposition to repre- sent as absolute fact that which is really fiction—additions for effect, the creations of the ars scribendi—may also be found in the "Walks and Talks."
The voyage, the Mersey, Liverpool, Birkenhead, Chester, Eaton Hall, a ramble through Cheshire, and an excursion into Wales, form the leading divisions of the present volume; which leaves the journey half untold, possibly to be completed. The author was accompanied by two companions,—his brother, an invalid in search of health ; a friend, apparently a clergyman, who came to study wisdom in the way Ulysses acquired it. Their mode of peregrina- tion was various often on foot; their lodgings generally of a hum- ble kind ; and ;heir companions such as the accidents of travel gave them. Mr. Olmsted willingly admits that he found every one communicative to the extent of his knowledge, and ready to assist them. Indeed, he speaks with favour as much as with im- partiality of Old England ; not overlooking faults or evils, but discussing them fairly. A feature of the ] armer's book is the manner in which we are helped, by comparison, to an idea of things in America that the thoroughgoing partisan would indirectly persuade the world do not exist at all in the Model Republic. On Mr. Olmsted's first landing at Liverpool, the behaviour of the unfortunate women as- sembled to welcome some crews coming in made a striking im- pression on him : in the land of freedom the "sailors' wives" would seem to claim their liberties too.
"The broad promenade outside the dock-walls was occupied by the police, stevedores, watermen,. boarding-house-keepers, and a crowd of women, wait- ing to help in the ships, or to receive their crews when the tide should have risen enough to admit them. I was surprised at the quietness and decency of these sailors' wives,' as they called themselves ; they were plainly and generally neatly dressed, and talked quietly and in kind tones to each other, and I heard no loud profanity or ribaldry at all. Whether this was owing to the presence of the police I cannot say, but I am sure that it would be impossible to find in America, vice, shame, and misery, so entirely unasso- Mated with drunkenness or excitement and riot. They were not as young as girls of the same sort in the streets of New York, and in the strong gas-light their faces seemed expressive of a quite different character; generally they were pensive and sad, but not ill-natured or stupid. It occurred to me that their degradation must have been reached in a different way, and had not brought with it that outcasting from all good which they would suffer with us. As they stood, companioned together with each other, but friendless, some with not even hate to protect them from the rain, Others with their
• Walks and Talks of an American Fanner in England. Published by Bogue.
gowns drawn up over their head, and others, two together, under a scanty shawl, it would have been difficult, I thought, for a woman, who is always found most unforgiving of her sister's sin, not to have been softened towards those abandoned thus to seek support of life that night."
A little incident at Birkenhead will show how the travellers contrived to obtain refreshment and information at a cheap rate.
" At the market-place we went into a baker's shop, and, while eating some buns, learned that the poorest flour in market was American, and the best French. Upon examination of his stock, we thought he had hardly a fah. sample of American flour, but his French flour was certainly remarkably flue, and would be so considered at Rochester. He said it made much whiter bread than either American or English, and he used but little of it unmixed, except for the most delicate pastry. French and English flour is sold in sacks, American in barrels. He thought American flour was not generally kiln-dried, and was much injured in consequence. When we left, he obli- gingly directed us to several objects of interest in the vicinity, and showed us through the market. It is but little less in size, and really appears finer and more convenient, than the one I described in Liverpool."
By the recommendation of their new acquaintance, they visited the public gardens or park at Birkenhead ; which made the same impression upon the party as the public grounds of England usual- ly do upon Americans.
"Walking a short distance up an avenue, we'passed through another light iron gate, into a thick, luxuriant, and diversified garden. Five minutes of admiration, and a few more spent in studying the manner in which art had been employed to obtain from nature 'so much beauty, and I was ready to
i admit that n Democratic America there was nothing to be thought of as comparable with this People's Garden. Indeed, gardening had here reached a perfection that I had never before dreamed of. I cannot undertake to de- scribe the effect of so much taste and skill as had evidently been employed ; I will only tell you, that we passed by winding paths, over acres and acres, with a constant varying surface, where on all sides were growing every va- riety of shrubs and flowers, with more than natural grace, all set in borders of greenest, closest turf, and all kept with most consummate neatness. At a distance of a quarter of a mile from the gate, we came to an open field of clean, bright green-sward, closely mown, on which a large tent was pitched, and a party of boys in one part, and a party of gentlemen in another, were playing cricket. Beyond this was a large meadow with rich groups of trees, under which a flock of sheep were reposing, and girls and women with chil- dren were playing. While watching the cricketers, we were threatened with a shower, and hastened back to look for shelter ; which we found in a pagoda, on an island approached by a Chinese bridge. It was soon filled, as were the other ornamental buildings, by a crowd of those who, like our- selves, had been overtaken in the grounds by the rain ; and I was glad to observe that the privileges of the garden were enjoyed about equally by all classes. There were some who were attended by servants, and sent at once for their carriages • but a large proportion were of the common ranks, and a few women with Children, or suffering from ill health, were evidently the wives of very humble labourers."
The following outburst on their first view of the English rural landscape is mingled with the observations of a practical farmer. They had descended from a railway-car to begin their pedestrian tour to Chester.
"In a few minutes they go off in carriages, and room is left us in the little waiting-room to strap on our knapsacks. The rain slackens—ceases, and we mount by stone steps up a bank of roses and closely-shaven turf, to the top of the bridge over the cutting. "There we were right in the midst of it. The country—and such a country—green, dripping, glistening, gorgeous! We stood dumb-stricken by its loveliness, as, from the bleak April and bare boughs we had left at home, broke upon us that English May—sunny, leafy, blooming May—in an Eng- lish lane ; with hedges, English hedges, hawthorn hedges, all in blossom; homely old farm-houses, quaint stables, and haystacks ; the old church-spire over the distant trees ; the mild sun beaming through the watery atmosphere, and all so quiet—the only sounds the hum of bees and the crisp grass-tearing of a silken-skinned, real, unimported Hereford cow, over the hedge ! No longer excited by daring to think we should see it, as we discussed the scheme round the old home-fire ; no longer cheering ourselves with it in the stupid, tedious ship ; no more forgetful of it in the bewilderment of the busy town : but there we were right in the midst of it ! Long time silent, and thim speaking softly, as if it were enchantment indeed, we gazed upon it, and breathed it—never to be forgotten ! "At length we walked on, rapidly, but frequently stoppinz, one side and the other, like children in a garden : hedges still, with delicious fra- grance, on each side of us, and on, as far as we can see, true farm-fencing hedges ; nothing trim, stiff, nice, and amateur-like, but the verdure broken, tufty, low, and natural. They are set on a ridge of earth thrown out from a ditch beside them, which raises and strengthens them as a fence. They are nearly all hawthorn, which is now covered in patches, as if after a slight fall of snow, with clusters of white or pink blossoms over its light green foliage. Here and there a holly-bush, with bunches of scarlet berries and a few other shrubs, mingle with it. A cart meets us—a real, heavy,' big'. wheeled English cart ; and English horses—real, big, shaggy-hoofed, sleek, heavy English cart-horses ; and a carter—a real apple-faced, smock- frocked, red-headed, wool-hatted carter—breeches, stockings, hob-nailed shoes, and Gee-up Dobbin' English carter. Little birds hop along in the road before us ; and we guess at their names, first of all electing one to be Robin Redbreast. We study the flowers under the hedge, and determine them nothing else than primroses and buttercups. Through the gates we admire the great, fat, clean-licked, contented-faced cows, and large, white, loug-woolled sheep. What else was there ? I cannot remember; but there was that altogether that made us forget our fatigue, disregard the min, thoughtless of the way we were going—serious, happy, and grateful. And this excitement continued for many days." The volume contains a good manycritical remarks on English agri- cultural implements, and the effect of various manures, a descrip- tion of various breeds of horses and cattle, as well as an account of draining, and of a few modes of cultivation, all made with judg- ment, and done in a style the reverse of dry. There are pleasant sketches of people encountered in the humble hostels where the party put up, and a good deal of writing about Chester, with which old city the traveller was vastly taken. As a close, wenn quote his account of a visit paid to a show mansion, for 'the re- marks indicative of the taste of Mr. Olmsted. In the original there are some observations on aristocracy, Republican, but judi- cious.
"We were kindly shown through all its parts, including much not ordi- narily exhibited to strangers ; and I confess that I was not more interested in those parts which were its peculiar features as a feudal stronghold, than in those that displayed the sumptuous taste, luxury, and splendour of a mo- dem aristocratic mansion. The state apartments were truly palatial, and their garniture of paintings, sculpture, bijouterie, furniture, and upholstery, magnificent and delightful to the eye, beyond any conception I had previously had of such things. Let no one say it will be soon reproduced, if it is not al- ready excelled, in the mansions of our merchant princes in America. Ex- celled it may be, but no such effect can be reproduced or furnished at once to the order of taste and wealth, for it is the result of generations of taste and wealth. There was in all never a marvellous thing, or one that demanded especial attention, or that proclaimed in itself great costliness ; and while nothing seemed new, though much was modern, most of the old things were of such materials, and so fashioned, that age was of no account, and not a word was said by them of fleeting time. The tone of all—yes, the tone— musical to all who entered, was, Be quiet and comfortable ; move slowly, and enjoy what is nearest to you, without straining your eyes or your admiration : nothing to excite curiosity or astonishment, only quiet resthetic contem- plation and calm satisfaction.
" I liked it, liked to be in it, and thought that if I had come honestly to the inheritance of it, I could abandon myself to a few months living in the way of it with a good deal of heart. But in the first breath of this day- dreaming I was interrupted by the question, Is it right and best that this should be for the few, the very few of us, when for many of the rest of us there must be but bare walls, tile-floors, and everything _besides harshly
screaming, scrabble for life ?”