Give me excess of it

LefoLiot.._

WE HAVE a very early Lent this year. Ash Wednesday is just around the corner on the 21st, so until then let us make merry before the fast commences; pity we don't have a proper carnival at the right time of the year, as in other countries. Next week we have St Valentine's day, which is shared with the more validated saints, Cyril and Methodius, who lived in the 9th century and were born in Thessalonika. Both broth- ers rose to high positions, then gave every- thing up and went to live in a monastery on the Bosphorus before setting out to convert the Khazars and the Moravians, the latter proving hard to convert. No wonder.

I have just returned from the glorious Bay of Galway, filming oyster beds and bars. It was bitterly cold, but the oysters, which came straight from the sea, were the best I have ever had, and as they are meant to be the food of love, I thought you might like some of the ways to deal with the gigas or Pacific oyster other than swallowing it raw, to cele- brate St Valentine. They are much cheaper than native oysters and not as good in my opinion. I wouldn't dream of cooking a native, but I think it improves the gigas, espe- cially when they are sold in the spawning sea- son and get very fat and creamy in texture. They are sold all year round for some reason, which I think is a mistake, but doubtless it brings in the shekels.

Irish oysters, Chinese style 1 small carrot, peeled and shredded

3 spring onions, trimmed and shredded 1 thin slice fresh ginger root, peeled and shredded 3 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 tablespoon sherry

1/2 —1 teaspoon Tabasco

2 teaspoons sesame oil

a few leaves fresh coriander or parsley 1/2 a small, fresh red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)

12 gigas oysters

Blanch the carrot in boiling water for one minute, add the ginger for the last few sec- onds. Drain well. Mix the soy sauce, sherry, Tabasco and sesame oil, then add the car- rot, ginger and the spring onions. Scrub the oysters, place in a saucepan with a little boiling water, cover, bring back to the boil and simmer until the shells open, about five Minutes. Remove from the heat. Insert a short-bladed knife between the shells and twist off the top shell. Slip the knife under the oyster to free the flesh from the shell. Arrange the oysters in their shells and spoon a little of the sauce over each one. A dainty dish for a loving couple.

There is a famous Louisiana sandwich which can be stuffed with any number of fillings, but here the oysters are simply grilled with a herb-and-garlic dressing.

Oyster po-boy

16 gigas oysters 4 rashers streaky bacon, rinds removed 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 oz unsalted butter 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed 1 tablespoon freshly chopped parsley freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon lemon juice 2 baguettes — the small variety Tabasco

Grill the oysters, flat shell uppermost, until the shells open slightly. The oyster juices will start to bubble out of the shells after 3-5 min- utes. Hold the oysters in a cloth, insert a knife between the shells, twist off the top shell and discard. Slip the knife under the flesh to free it. Remove the oysters with their juices and place in a bowl. Heat the olive oil and butter together with the garlic. Add parsley, pepper and lemon juice, no need for salt. Stretch the bacon with the blade of a knife, cut into four and make small rolls. Thread the oysters and bacon onto four slightly oiled skewers. Brush the oysters with the sauce and grill for two minutes each side, basting frequently. Halve the baguettes lengthways, toast cut sides until golden, drib- ble with olive oil. Remove oysters and bacon from the skewers and arrange on the bread. Spoon over a little more sauce and hand round the Tabasco, to be added to taste. Serves four.

If oysters are not your thing, try mussels, which are in fine fettle at the moment.

Garlic-stuffed mussels

4 lbs fresh mussels 6 oz butter 4-6 cloves garlic, crushed juice of 1 lemon 2 oz fine white breadcrumbs chopped parsley

Wash and debeard the mussels thorough- ly. Discard any that are broken or open. Place in a shallow, heavy saucepan. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over a high heat for 5-7 minutes, shaking occasionally. Remove the top shell from each mussel and arrange the bottom shell with the flesh in a dish. Melt the butter, add garlic, parsley and lemon juice. Pour over the mussels, sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, then grill or bake until golden brown. Splendid.

Jennifer Paterson