Getting personal
Charlotte Metcalf noses her way through the world of bespoke scent Iam sure most Spectator readers would agree that Christmas shopping used not to be so stressful. Every Christmas Eve my father, himself a Spectator contributor, would pop into Fortnum & Mason to pick up a reassuringly expensive bottle of Joy for my mother. Annually she accepted it with the grace of someone receiving a bottle of scent for the very first time — job done. She preferred Tresor but to admit it was tantamount to treachery.
Today the plethora of smells, assaulting the nostrils of anyone venturing into a perfumery, is enough devotee. The fragrance industry has noisseurs describing fine wine, oldest privately owned perfumer, stockmarshes that I so love,' Lyn enthuses. Its fresh, like clean laundry,' he ingredients include sea moss, red thyme, says. 'People were afraid to clary sage, cistus, wild iris and rose, ambrette be noticed. But now people seed and vetiver. No wonder Lyn claims that are craving the attention the foundation stone of her brand is its dedithat comes from wearing cation to precious ingredients. a daring, individual scent.
Though Miller Harris is an established Men are no longer brand, Lyn's core business is bespoke scared of florals.'
scent. 'Personal fragrance is the future. With that he picks No one wants to smell like someone up a curved bottle and else anymore,' she says. Her waiting-list sprays my wrist. Suddenly proves the point. Lyn can only take six I smell irresistibly of daffodils in the feel I am aglow with timeless glamour as I am guided to the next shelf by Michael Donovan, PR for Les Senteurs. Michael's knowledge of scent is encyclopaedic and his passion infectious. 'This one has vodka, champagne and Russian tea in it,' he says, spraying Ambre Russe. 'If scent doesn't smell a bit dirty, it's just not sexy.'
Paris-based Creed was established in London in 1760 by an Irish saddler and the range is stocked by Les Senteurs. Championed by Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, Creed's reputation spread and soon Queen Victoria was wearing his Fleurs de Bulgarie. Creed went on to create fragrances for Marlene Dietrich, Errol Flynn and Ava Gardner, and made Fleurissimo, still a bestseller, for Princess Grace's wedding day. Six generations later, Olivier Creed's devotion to the craft endures. To keep his nose refined, he never wears scent himself and only smokes one cigar a week. If it's good enough for a princess and a maharajah, it's good enough for me. Gifts purchased, I leave trailing a cloud of golden daffodils in my wake. Christmas shopping just became stress-free again.
MILLER HARRIS 21 Bruton Street, London W1 0207 629 7750 www.millerharris.com LES SENTEURS 71 Elizabeth Street, London SW1 0207 730 2322 www.lessenteurs.com
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