SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
SIMON HOGGART
There are many things I like about Adnams, the great independent brewery that is now a wine merchant as well. I really like their main shop, one of the most appealing off-licences I know. I like the setting in Southwold, a town so popular now that beach huts cost over £40,000. Most of all I like their wines. They have all the classics, but their real glory is the bottles they track down everywhere, delectable gems at ridiculously modest prices. The quality of wine continues to rise around the world, and Adnams’ buyers seem to be poised and ready with their cheque books in each up-and-coming region.
The results are so satisfactory that, for the first time, we are offering nine different wines. I could not leave any of these out. You can buy by the unmixed case, or by the sample case (regular and de luxe) or else another innovation — use combinations of three bottles to make up a case of 15. I suggest you phone those orders in (01502 727222), so you can be quoted the exact price. The wines are discounted by about £5 per case, and delivery, as always, is free.* The Highwood Sauvignon Blanc 20041 is from South Australia, and proves that the Australians can now show the New Zealanders a thing or two about this grape. It’s fat, juicy, refreshing, perfect as an aperitif or with food. Wonderful value for £6.29.
Viognier is the grape that gives us Condrieu (£50 or so per bottle at the top end) and much very pleasant glugging wine. This one, a 2004 from Les Terrasses d’Eole in the Vaucluse2, has the heady perfume and the slightest touch of sweetness — don’t think of letting that put you off reminiscent of a Condrieu. This is a tremendous wine anyhow; at this price (£7.50) it’s astonishing.
Now two Chardonnays. The Juniper Crossing 20033 from the excellent Margaret River area is a classic Oz at only £8.99. Depth and richness are here, and enough oak to add flavour but not to hijack it.
The Chablis from the Domaine de la Boissonneuse 20024 is a tremendous discovery. It has the flinty background Chablis lovers like, but it also has a soft, fruity, almost velvety style. Première Cru quality at a very reasonable £12.99.
The Adnams’ selection wine from Navarra, the Monte Arlas 20045, is one of the nicest rosés I have ever tried (£6.99). It’s crisp, with a lovely raspberry taste and a sort of slaty dryness. This is not an alcoholic fruit cup; it’s a truly delicious, even distinguished wine.
The reds are also superb. If you like good Beaujolais (forget the ghastly nou veau) you’ll love this Gamay Les Collines 20046 from the Domaine de la Bergerie in the Loire. It’s a soft, gentle, light wine, but packed with the flavour of the grape. As good as a Beaujolais Villages for only £5.99. Also from Highwood is their Shiraz 20037, which really is bursting with mouthwatering flavours. This will be terrific with the first stews and casseroles of autumn, and costs a mere £6.29.
Now two Grenache wines, each of stunning quality. The Spanish Garnacha Viflas Viejas 20038 from Baltasar Gracian, Calatayud, is made from old vines, some of which go back 100 years. It is round, mellow, sodden with rich, ripe flavours. A lovely drop, at an incredibly reasonable £6.99.
The Cuvée 2 from Hegarty-Chamans 20039 is an astounding discovery. It is two thirds Grenache, but with some Syrah and Cinsault, and it brings to the party cherries, spices, cedar, tobacco, prunes and a lovely, lingering aroma. It is also 15 per cent alcohol, so you won’t even need a lot of this nectar to enjoy yourself. At £8.50 it is one of the best value wines I have ever tasted, anywhere. 1P
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