SIMON HOGGART Spectator readers are famous for being richer than
most, which is why the magazine carries ads for cashmere hip flasks and handbags made from the toenails of hand-reared angora rabbits. Nonetheless, we all like a bargain, and I do my best to seek these out. Sometimes merchants will have too much of a wine which they bought because it was absolutely delicious but, lacking a famous name, didn't sell as well as it deserved. So they offer it to us, sometimes at ludicrously low prices. We have two very good examples here from the famous old house of El Vino in Fleet Street, known as 'Pomeroys' to Rumpole fans.
On the other hand, sometimes a wine is enormously popular, and in that case they don't offer a discount, as with our two 'house' wines. The white Choisi de Boyier (1) is from the Cote d'Or, and though I'm not supposed to say this, it is overproduction of Burgundy. All right, it isn't Le Montrachet, but it is a nice, plump, well-balanced, unoaked Chardonnay and it costs just £4.95.
In the same way if you study the label on El Vino's Velvin (6), you'll see that it is bottled in '21200 France' which is the postcode for Beaune, the heart of Burgundy. This is the red equivalent, being a hearty and richly enjoyable Pinot Noir at the same very low price.
Now, the Brian Barry Riesling 2004 (2) from one of the best-known and oldest of all Australian winemakers, is a terrific bargain, having been knocked down from £10.25 to £7.70 a bottle. El Vino's Anthony Mitchell rightly adores this wine yet, he says, he had to 'talk every bottle off the shelf'. Why? It's a gorgeous, rich, silky, perfumed wine with that slightly oily tinge of any fine Riesling. The grapes are handpicked, and have an amazing intensity of flavour. I am drinking it now and not only is the bottle half-empty but a neighbour who loved it too has dropped in hoping for more. I may pretend it's all gone.
There is £1 off the delicious Greenstone Point Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (3) from New Zealand, which has sold well before to Spectator readers. It is from the estate next to Cloudy Bay; if you were to visit, you would be able to shake hands with foolish people who pay three times as much for a wine that is no better than this.
One wine that does fly off the shelves is the Ch. Le Touron Monbazillac 2004 (4). It's a sweet wine from Bergerac, made largely from the same grapes as Sauternes, though slightly drier and much cheaper. It has that lovely roasted-hazelnut musky flavour, and would be perfect with fresh fruit, creamy dishes or a rich pate. Try it with a salad of Roquefort, melon and figs, and you will be very happy. Only £7.75.
Rosé wines grow more popular, and you won't find that surprising if you try this Australian First Creek 2006 (5). Like most modem rosés it's basically a red wine (in this case, Merlot/Shiraz) with the skins removed early, so it is light and refreshing, yet still has real depth of flavour.
Our reds are both real stars. Anthony has taken £1 (17 per cent) off this Viu Manent Carmenere 2005 (7) from Chile, and it's stunning. The grape is basically a late-ripening version of Merlot, but with wonderful qualities of its own. I quote Oz Clarke on Carmenere: 'blackberry, black plum and spice . . . rich round tannins, a marvellous savoury array of flavours: coffee, grilled meat, celery and soy sauce'. Not sure about the last, but otherwise I could not put it better myself. Superb value at £5.85.
Finally, a huge bargain and a huge treat for lovers of old claret. Anthony had too much of this Ch. Peymartin 1995 (8) from St Julien, whereupon he realised two things first, it is absolutely delicious, with lovely tobacco, cherry, spice, even leafy flavours, dark and aged. Second, it needs to be drunk within, say, eight months. He was about to sell it off as El Vino's bar claret. Sacrilege. Instead he has reduced it from £22 a bottle to £14.95. I suggest you buy it now and just gorge on it.
Delivery, as ever, is free, and there is a sample case of the six pricier wines.
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