A bit of the light stuff
LOILM,....107LifiLik...•KJMOOLiku SHOULD you be the proud possessor of a real larder, the heel of some great ham and the remnants of a huge potted tongue, the following receipt will be useful for polishing off the meats. Otherwise they may be purchased at will, to make this elegant and delicious cold soufflé: Soufflé glace au jambon
1 lb cooked lean ham 1/2 lb cooked tongue 1 envelope of gelatine (0.4 oz, 11g) 1/4 pint of dry vermouth 1 pint of thick cream
lh pint of good chicken stock
3 tablespoons of finely chopped shallots or spring onions 4 egg whites 1 oz of butter, black pepper
Pour the gelatine into the vermouth and leave for a few minutes to get spongy. In a little cooking pan melt the onions in the butter for about two minutes until soft, add half the stock, bring to the boil, then simmer for another minute; take off the heat and beat in the gelatine and vermouth mixture until thoroughly dissolved. Chop the ham, then pound to a paste in a liquidiser or processor; failing both instru- ments you can use a pestle and mortar but it is a hell of a sweat. Add the rest of the stock to facilitate the processing. Cut the tongue into small cubes, combine with the ham paste in a large bowl, mix with the onions and gelatine. Whip the cream until it leaves a trail when dripped and fold into the ham, adding some freshly ground black pepper. Place in the refrigerator for about half an hour to stiffen a little. Whip the egg whites until stiff enough to hold soft peaks; carefully fold into the ham mixture, then pour the lot into a two-pint soufflé dish. Refrigerate for six hours or until set. Serve with a sprinkling of parsley and some hot toast. If you are using a processor be sure to put the stock in with the ham right from the start. The first time I tried this, I put the ham in alone and it whizzed itself into fine gravel.
I have no idea what the next concoction is called, it is a sort of half soufflé rather like the Italian sformato but without the bechamel. I got it years ago from Jane Barran (the Kensington Square one there are others). It has an interesting taste and makes a good supper dish. Let's call it: Spectator surprise
10 oz of string beans 1 sweet green pepper 1 sweet red pepper 1 large onion 4 oz of olive oil 4 eggs 5 oz tin of artichoke hearts (approx)
The beans can be fresh or frozen. Cook them and drain well. Chop the onion and cook until soft in some of the oil. Dice the green pepper. Place the beans, artichokes, onions and the rest of the olive oil in the blender, whizz to a purée. Pour into a bowl, add the diced pepper then season with ground salt and pepper. Beat the eggs thoroughly and fold into the vegetable purée. Pour into a well buttered soufflé dish then cook in a preheated oven Gas 4 F. 350.C. 177 for 45 minutes. When ready, decorate the top with thin strips of the red pepper for jolliness's sake as it is a fairly sinister colour.
From the same source a wonderful way for cooking winter carrots. Pound for pound you need twice as many carrots as onions so let's say one pound of carrots to half a pound of onions. Slice both as finely as possible after peeling. Slice the carrots on the bias; not only do they look more fetching but in some strange way it's easier. Melt 2 oz of dripping or butter in a fine big frying pan, toss in the vegetables to cook until they brown a little; season with salt, ground pepper and a dusting of flour, mix well, then moisten with stock. Simmer uncovered until tender, returning to give the odd stir (takes 40 to 50 minutes). When ready, put in a dash of wine vinegar, a handful of chopped parsley and the yolk of an egg. Mix vigorously and serve.
If you are surrounded by pheasant or the happy receiver of such birds, a hint to keep them moist and succulent. Make a stuffing from a quarter-pound of good sausage meat, one stick of celery and a sweet apple. Mash all together with 2 oz of butter. This is ample for two birds. This stuffing is not for eating, but you can add it to the bones when you are making a stock. Cover the birds with good slices of pork fat until the last ten minutes and the result will never be dry.
Jennifer Paterson
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