SIMON HOGGART
Among the letters I get from Spectator readers — and I'm always delighted to learn your views — are those that ask us to offer some cheaper wines. I do try to pay heed to this plea, though it's surprising how often it's the pricier wines which sell most, both by cost and quantity. Also, some of you have also asked for an offer of organic wines, which can be hard to come by. Often quite large supermarkets will have only a meagre selection. So this week we've combined both suggestions.
I must confess I've had an irrational prejudice against organic wines, associating them with, say, organic carrots, which tend to cost twice as much as ordinary ones, or even more if there are clods of earth clinging to them. But when I tried a selection from Vintage Roots, an enterprising company near Reading which sells only organic wine. I was completely converted. The people at VR say the wines are better because, as they put it, they are not 'locked into a cycle of chemical dependency'. I don't know if that's the reason, but these four wines are really delicious, and they'll please less plutocratic readers because they all come in at just under £6.
The Terra Sana 2002(1) is made by the
famous Lurton brothers, flying wine-makers, and it's just lovely. Made in southern France from
+.7■1r. a blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, it's fruity and
lemony but with real depth and weight. Just right for spring glugging.
A creamier, oakier wine is
the Domaine de Brau Chardonnay 2001(2) from the Aude. For the price (it's discounted over £7 a case) this is quite amazing: well-balanced, sodden with flavour — better, I think, than many Oz Chardonnays which cost more. The French are catching up with the rest of the world at last.
The reds are sensational. The Donaria Bonarda 2002(s) from Argentina is a super, thick, rich wine with great weight and enough strength to go with casseroles, roasts, venison, or even — and this may sound silly — dessert. 'Strawberry, lemon, thyme and forest fruits', say the tasting notes, and I cannot disagree.
The Château Bousquette 2000(i) is glorious too. St Chinian is one of my favourite appellations, usually producing wines that are smoky, cedary and perfumed, with flavours of cherry and even liquorice. Delivery, as always, is free, and there is a sample case offering three of each wine.
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