CITY AND SUBURBAN
It's a boom, it's the Gastrodome Factor in action the British economy is overeating
CHRISTOPHER FILDES
Ihave been vouchsafed a new insight into the British economy. It's overeating. My discovery will be of the greatest value to those now trying to decide whether the economy is speeding up or slowing down. At the Bank of England, the new Monetary Policy Committee has been trying to work out what is happening to inflation. Is it ris- ing or falling? (Answer: both.) The argu- ment rages and the policy-makers' ears are bent in opposite directions. Happily, I can assist them. They should be watching the Gastrodome Factor. I derive this index from the vast new eateries now opening at breakneck speed all over London. Brand new is the Belle Epoque, three restaurants in one, on the northern frontiers of Chelsea. My colleague David Fingleton is munching his way in and will report next week. You could throw a bread roll from the Belle Epoque's doorstep and hit Sir Terence Conran's latest gastrodome, the Bluebird. (Last month, as you will recall, Alan Watkins was warning us against its fishcakes.) Sir Terence already has Quagli- no's, and four restaurants in Butlers Wharf — just the place for Tony Blair to take Bill Clinton — and the cavernous Mezzo in Soho. There, it contrasts with Quo Vadis, once a mamma-mia restaurant of the old school, now one of Marco Pierre White's ventures, selling Beaujolais at £33 a bottle. His widening empire demonstrates the con- cept of the chef as franchise operator. Coming next from Sir Terence is Zinc, which will be down the road from Momo, and the Old Fire Station, Marylebone, with less to fear from Marylebone station buffet. The Oxo Tower's restaurants are hot tick- ets and the eating floor of Harvey Nichols is a scrum. More and more bottoms on seats, more Pinot Grigio and charred tuna going down the red lane and more flashing of gold cards to pay for them — it's a boom. It's the Gastrodome Factor in action.
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