Christmas delectables

LOALJPRIL

THIS Christmas edition is coming out so early that I am in a complete muddle about my dear saints. Here we are in the middle of Advent which, according to Father Ignatius at the London Oratory, is not a penitent time like Lent (I always thought it was, and we certainly had to give up sweets at school) but rather a time to share the attitude of mind of the patriachs and seers of Israel who yearned for the Advent of the Messiah in his twofold coming of grace and glory: first His lowly birth at Bethlehem, which will enlighten the world until the end of time, and second His return at the last judgment, when He comes in the splendour of His power and majesty to 'condemn the guilty to the flames and call the just with a loving voice to heaven'. So a very happy Christmas to you all.

You may have noted that I went to the BBC Good Food Show at the NEC in Birm- ingham two weeks ago — a terrible place, but the Safeway/Daily Telegraph 'Ask the Expert' run by the glorious Thane Prince has provided me with some delectables for you to try for the coming festivities. All these receipts are for four people.

Duck liver pâté with orange relish

14 oz fresh duck livers 2 tablespoons brandy 1 large clove garlic, peeled and crushed

21/2 oz butter

salt and pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 large shallots, finely chopped grated zest of a well-scrubbed orange

1/4 pint double cream Heat the oil in a heavy frying-pan. Cook the shallots until soft but not browned, then add the garlic and cook for a further minute. Trim the livers and add to the pan. Cook over a moderate heat, turning at intervals until almost cooked through but still pink inside. Add the butter, cream, orange zest and plenty of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Simmer for a further minute. Tip the contents of the pan intp a blender, add the brandy and whizz until smooth. Spoon into a suitable pâté dish (I use a soufflé one), cover and chill overnight or at least 6 hours.

Orange Relish

4 tablespoons good orange marmalade 1 tablespoon oil juice of 1 orange 1 shallot, peeled and chopped juice and zest of 1 lemon salt and Tabasco

Heat the oil in a small saucepan and fry the shallots until soft. Add the marmalade, orange juice, lemon juice and zest, cooking and stirring until you have a well-amalgamat- ed sauce. Season to taste with salt and Tabas- co, simmer for 1-2 minutes, then cool. Serve the pâté with hot brown toast or a crusty baguette and the orange relish on the side.

The next dish would be good if you have a visiting vegetarian; it is also very good with cold meats, especially a good piece of ham.

Pam* and red onion tarte tatin

3 medium parsnips 3 medium red onions 2 tablespoons olive oil 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary 1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

11/2 oz butter

1 sheet ready-rolled puff pastry salt and pepper

Peel the parsnips and cut into 2 inch-long slices. Parboil until just tender, then drain. Cut the onions into quarters, removing the skins. Choose a heavy frying-pan or gratin dish that can be used in the oven. Heat the oil and fry the onions without turning for 5 minutes. Add the parsnip pieces, arranging them amongst the onions; tuck in the rose- mary sprigs. Season well and cook for a fur- ther 2-3 minutes, again without turning or stirring. Add the balsamic vinegar and but- ter. Cut a circle of pastry roughly the size of the pan and place carefully over the vegeta- bles. Place the pan in a preheated oven at Gas 7,425F, 220C, for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 3 min- utes before inverting onto a flat plate. Serve with an interesting leaf salad and a balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing.

If you don't want a whole turkey you could have: Grilled turkey steaks

4 large turkey breast steaks olive oil seasoned with salt, pepper and fresh thyme

Brush the steaks with the seasoned oil. Heat a ridged griddle or a heavy iron fry- ing-pan and cook steaks for 3-4 minutes on each side. They will be moist and tender, but cooked through. Allow to rest for a few minutes, then serve with the potatoes of your choice and: Stir-fried sprouts with bacon and chestnuts

12 oz fresh brussels sprouts, trimmed 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 8 cooked chestnuts, fresh, tinned or vacuum- packed 2 spring onions 3 oz streaky bacon cut into strips

Shred the sprouts finely with a grater or food processor. Heat the oil in a large frying- pan or wok and fry the bacon until crisp. Add the chestnuts and chopped spring onions and fry until glazed. Remove all from the wok and reserve. Stir-fry the sprouts until the mixture is a vivid green but just tender. Sea- son with salt and pepper and a dash of lemon juice. Return the bacon, spring onions and chestnuts to the pan to reheat, then spoon into a warmed serving-dish.

Jennifer Paterson