14 FEBRUARY 2004, Page 47

SIMON HOGGART

/.....i ast year we ran a splendidly successful mini-bar offer from The Vintry, the co-operative gathering of oenophiles who sell wine from their homes. Theirs is a cunning plan. They themselves choose the wines, all French, avoiding overpriced big names and the cheap and nasty rubbish that crops up in some restaurants and, it must be said, many French supermarkets. If you live near a member — and you'll get a list if you buy from this offer, or you could just phone the number and ask — you can attend one of their regular tastings, held in what are usually very handsome houses indeed. In fact, one of the attractions is getting a personal Hello!-style visit to their lovely homes. And the wine is terrific, too. All these prices are discounted.

The Laurent Miguel ChardonnayNiognier 200211) is a lovely, juicy, fruity blend from the Pays d'Oc. It is round and rich, a perfect aperitif for spring drinking, but dry enough to go very well indeed with food. It's a wine that cheers you up with your first sip, and at £6.50 it is super value.

So, at the same price, is the Chateau des Chapelains Blanc Prelude 2002(2), a dry white Sainte Foy Bordeaux, which proves again how well the French have adapted to the challenge of New Zealand when

it comes to Sauvignon Blanes.

In my student days a thy white Bordeaux was a reedy, chalky wine, which you bought because your grant was running out.

But this is scrumptious, with a heady, mouth-filling taste as well as that agree able flinty undertone.

Last year's bestseller was the claret, and no wonder. The Chateau Meaume Reserve 1999(a) is that rarity, a truly excellent red Bordeaux at a very acceptable price. The tremendous Reserve is made exclusively for The Vintry. They sell gallons of the stuff, and when you try it you'll see why — deep, dark, cedary and altogether very satisfying.

Finally, a wonderful wine from the deep south. The Domaine de SainteCroix La Bergerie 2001(4) has just got appellation status from the Coteaux de Languedoc, and not before time. It is a fabulous drop — velvety, rich, lingering, with flavours of cherries, plums and licorice. If it came from a better known region, it would cost at least twice the price; as it is, you can buy it reduced to £9.95. I could hardly recommend it more.

You can buy any wine by the case, or get the sampler, which includes three of each bottle. Delivery is, as always, free, and there is a £10 discount for anyone order

ing three or more cases. -74