TOURS IN THE HIMALAYA.

Ai:moron the scientific results of the three tours contained in these volumes have been communicated to the learned world by various channels, they are in the main as generally interesting as ever, partly because the popular matter of the tour is new, partly from the vast and unchangeable nature of their subject.

The Himalayan range is not only remarkable as containing by far the highest elevations on the globe, and the sources of the many rivers that water the two extreme confines of India—" such is the constitution of this extraordinary country, that the Tartar tends his cattle and enjoys the contorts of his fireside at heights which under the Equator itelf are consigned to the rest of eternal snow." Vegetation is found at elevatioes not greatly below that of Mont Blanc ; to ascend which was till lately deemed an immortal feat, and is even now a travelling distinction. Birches, though dwindled, grow on the hither or Indian thee at 12,500 feet above the level of the sea, (the Simplon Alps are 11,7300 and at Nako in Thibet, the " most luxuriant crops of barley and wheat" are produced at an altitude beyond 12,000. Of' (entree these elevations in winter are dreadfully cold : as the traveller mounts still higher, he feels the usual incooveniences of it raritied air ; and several of the upper passes are at all times riskful, and sometimes attended with loss of life. Yet at altitudes which elsewhere are scarcely habit- able, the climate of the Himalaya is delightful, presenting to the eye the Ibrests and flowers of temperate Europe, and to the feel- ings the balmy and inspiriting sensations of spring. even to worn travellers who have just quitted the burLin_ plains of Hindostan. The grandeur of the scenery may readily be supposed to sur- pass that of all other Mountains, as much as the Himalaya exceed all others in magnitude ; but it is not in mere form and size alone that they excel. The peculiar colour and purity of the atmosphere—the bare, 'slack, and giant peaks towering even above the eternal snows—and the immense extent of mountain line, estimated on an occasion by Major LLOYD at 160 miles, visible at once—combine to form a prospect which has no equal upon the earth. The comparative facility of ascending them, through the genial nature of their climate, renders their beauties more accessible, while in the eye of the scientific observer it would appear to detract from their wonder. The height of the cloud-based pinnacles above the level of the sea is not so thoroughly felt, owing to the height at which the observer stands. And we find the scientific tourist reertetiog that neither cflhm'ts of memory nor of calcula- tion fully impress his senses with the wonderful altitude of the Himalayan peaks. The upper part of these vast mountains are the gilicina of Nature, it litre, though animal or vegetable life cannot long be sustained. site prepares the means of their existence in more genial climates. Here she fitshions the prime/sib/ of the soil of countries, and of the rivers which arc to water them in Cleir way to replace the evaporation of the ocean. And though this process goes on in all hilly ranges, the work is more extraordinary and more distinctly perceptible in the Himalaya. From sonic accumu- lation of snow a river rushes forth wh:eli is to swell the waters of the Ganges ur the Indus : ere long it buries itself in some other hoary pile. heard perhaps but not seen itt its sub/deem: course; or its stream is spanned by a natural brid.;e, of ice, or it precipi- tates itself down a chasm Where no mortal can follow : the extra- ordinary teen% ity of the rivers being one tit' the wonders at' the Ilint;tlaca : enot.her, the volume of water they possess at great elevatiOns. with their sternly maiet:ticent •• At d hours SU min.** says Major Imovn, wr came t, the continence of the Stepan aml Ike Pnblozr Lire the ,n,T .I•ms grciss meks cis. ,dicer several huhdr, .1 feet into mur.:1 prociric,. over whirls inany rstades f,umied front the melt ing of the snows t in.ible into the salt below. whet has been riven asunder by the uncontrollable catmaets. The lavines thron;:i which they dash are deep ; that of the PlIbbllr S.kirt0d by crags splintrreil into sharp pinnaeles, and limb. ilarliened ihto ,,I.ysscs of gl,him. fined with whhl tints a the a hite,t and r,i.,thoing• the hollow thunders of the c:ern ally 'vexed torrents, whi.di seem like tilt' revelling laughter: of desolation. This is llimahvau grandeur, inspiring awe breathless with and WOL:kr.

The elevation of the cenduciwy is B,lidiia feet. There is a sango over the Sequin at this elace, of tau, narrow plants. thh-t -lour feet in length. antl about toils,' or fifteen feet above the itnpa:irot current. litre some of our follto,crs seemed to want resolution to cross the periloas lhio crawled over pi his hands and knees, another sat astride, and urz.• over by

but nothing is eternal save the laws of Nature ; and her law of mutability operates as surely upon the pinnacles of this great range as when she dooms an insect or a flower to decay and death. The frosts of winter split or crumble the peaks that look coeval with the globe; they fall in fragments or moulder in atoms : the ava- lanche, whose snows would defy the unfelt sun, thunders precipi- tous down from its own accumulations, bearing with it the debris of the mountain : the operations of the atmosphere in somewhat lower regions, still further influence both ; till the inciting snow bears with it in solution the pulverized rock, to contribute, per- chance, in the lapse of time, to form the far-off delta of the Indus or the Ganges.

The three journies which are narrated in the volumes before us were performed about the year 1822. The immediate part of the Himalaya visited lies within 77° 79° of East longitude and 31° 32° of North latitude : embracing the scene of our con- flict with the Goorkas during the Nepaul war, and now the boundary of our territory in this direction ; the districts of several tributary or friendly chieftains ; a part of Thibet, and the confines of Chinese Tartary—for the Celestials were too crafty to allow Captain GERARD to cross the frontier. It was reported that an European gentleman had been seen in the Boorendo Pass: a sort of Tartar levy en masse was turned out to wait for him ; he was civilly but firmly delayed on the road; his letters were sent on, to be politely answered at another post, to which he went in hopes to enter : he was not interfered with—but no provisions were permitted to be furnished him ; and as supplies are scarce in these elevated regions, there was nothing left but to beat a retreat. Of the three tours, the two by the enterprising brothers GERARD were purely scientific in their objects ; and though occasional sketches of scenery and manners, with some general information, are met with, the height and position of places, and matters of a similar nature, form the staple of their narrative. As an explana- tion of this paucity, and an all-sufficient excuse for it, it should be said that their portion of the volumes is in the shape of letters, written off-hand to intimate friends ; and in the case of Captain GERARD, frequently at the close of an arduous day's work, when the frame was exhausted by toil, the man ill at ease from cold and pri- vations, and the system oppressed by the rarified atmosphere. Major Sir WILLIAM LLOYD'S contribution is in the form of a journal ; and is the most popular portion of the work, not merely

for the subjects he handles, but for the character of the man.

Major LLOYD is a frank and unaffected soldier, not unacquainted with Indian history and literature—unless his son and editor has

'interpolated some episodical passages, whose text is the scene before the traveller. When the novelty or innate qualities of sub- jects excite his attention, he describes them truly and clearly;

and his style, though rather fine at times, is redeemed by its ob-

vious feeling. Literary skill, by which common incidents are turned to account, the Major does not possess, or the judgment, ranking equal to it, which suppresses them. Hence, the earlier part of his journal, describing his route from the military station at Caunpoor to Sirhind, is rather dry and commonplace, excepting here and there a military reminiscence or a pleasant sketch.

When Major LLOYD reaches the Himalaya, almost every page is pregnant with instruction or amusement, and not unfrequently

with both. Our extracts shall be confined to the mountain characteristics ; commencing with the more naked pictures, and gradually proceeding to vegetation and life.

GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE III3IALAYA.

Many of the mountains around Senile, width arc the mere vassals of the mighty Himala, would be the boast of other countries,—as Wartoo or Huttoo 10,673 feet, Jungala between 10,000 and 11,000 feet, the larger Silence 9,623 feet, the Choor Palter 12,149 feet, and Jukkoo 8,120 feet. Over these the snowy range extends from N. 30 der,. \V. to N. 70 deg. E., embracing con- sequently an angle of 100 degrees. The general appearance of this mass of snow is that of a wide undulating plain, trotn which peaks rise in every ima- ginable shape. Their general height is from 16,203 to 25,749 feet, from 1,000 to 10,000 feet of which is covered with eternal whiteness ; the disputed line of perpetual snow on the Southern side of this first high chain being, 15,000 feet. Between these peaks are the Passes which lead into Koonawr and Chinese Tartary, the principal of which are those nearest to us,—as the Shatool 15,555 feet, the Yoosoo 15,877 feet, and the Boorendo 15,171 feet. This first barrier, however, is but the screen to other assemblages of higher mountains, which again are still the inferiors of the world like bulwarks on the left bank of the Indus, from whence they slope to the Steppes of Turtary, and are at length lost in tine immeasurable deserts of Cobi and the deep woods and countless marshes of Siberia. The summits of this highest range have been estimated upon good grounds by my most adventurous and intelligent friends, J. 0. Ge- rard and A. Gerard—who alone have explored many portions of these wild recesses—to rise to the enormous elevation of 30,000 feet. Within these tower- ing hounds the general appearance of the region is mournful and barren. There, surrounded by the most gigantic pinnacles of the universe, Sublimity sits fettered to Desolation. It awes the mind.

SUNRISE ON THE HIMALAYA.

We readied the summit of Jukkoo long before daybreak, and anxiously awaited the (lawn. The sky appeared an enormous dome of the richest inas,v sapphire, overhanging the lofty pinnacles of the Himalaya, which Were of 111(ii;-• senbably hues and strangely fantastic terms. At length time vast beam- ing slmit,,v, sprung upwards from five high peaks, as thottgli the giant day hail grasped the (nighty barrier to raise himself; while in the Caine insiunt the light rolled in dense dazzling volumes through the broad snowy vilifies between them, and soon the glorious orb arose with blinding splendour over the Yoosoo Pass, and assumed the appearance of a grid-like eye. In a moment these rising solitudes flung off their nightly garments of the purest blue, and stood arrayed in robes of glowing, white. The intermediate mountains east their disjointed dark broad shadows across the swelling ranges below, the interminable plains were illumined, all the gorgeous, all the ineffable variety of earth became dis- tinct—it was day, and the voiceless soul of the great globe seemed to rejoice smiling.

CULTIVAT/ON IN TIIE HIMALAYA.

The broad Banks and the curious flat summits of some of the mountains,

wherever there is sufficient soil, are cultivated with an industry which is almost incredible. The fields on the slopes are, as. I have already mentioned, long narrow strips of ground, which rise one above another like terraces to great elevations, even upon very steep declivities. The supporting wall of each as two, three, four, five, or six feet in height, according to the abruptness of the place. They are levelled with great care, and are watered by rills conducted sometimes from a considerable distance. They generally run from the highest, and overflow every part successively to the lowest. The effect of aspect and elevation upon the cultivation is very remarkable ; for while upon the uplands the produce is green, it has been reaped and carried at the base of the valley, Indeed this is extraordinarily exemplified in two gardens which Captain', Gerard has at Kooteghur ; one of which is near the house where he resides,and the other in the de11.4,000 feet below. In the lower one plantains and othet tropical fruits arc abundant, while in the upper English fruits are equally plentiful.

The buildings have a Swiss style ; and, as necessity is the mother of invention' have more stories and a more substantial character than are found amongst people more advanced in art, who have not to resist mountain storms and snow.

"The hamlets are seldom of more titan ten or fifteen houses, generally not so many. Single houses are numerous, and front their being scattered amongst the fields, give an agreeable variety to the bold landscape. In there districts which border the plains, the dwellings, which arc mere huts, have flat roofs; but here, where snow always falls in winter, the roofs, made either of cedar (also called Derider) or of slates, arc pent. They are of two or three stories; the lowest of which is invariably used for cattle ; and when there arc three, the second for grain, and the third, occupied by the family, is surrounded bya covered gallery, in which its inhabitants arc generally seen sitting when at leisure. All the temples, and many also of the larger houses, have roofs after the Chinese fashion, which gives them a singular and pleasing; appearance. The pitch of these roof's is very great, being formed by the disposition of planks into two concave curves, joined at the summit, and diverging down to the walls, where they project horizontally three or four feet into eaves. The walls are of wood or stone, sometimes both, and the buildings are very substantial."

It is pleasing to notice the moral influences of youth, and home, and country, even in the minds of inen whose romance may be supposed to have been dissipated by the hardships of a military career. The stupendous grandeur of the Himalaya had less effect upon the feelings of Major LLOYD than the thrush he heard singing " the first time for many years ; " and after the day on which he first reached the "oppressive" grandeur of the mountains, and stood amid " the ready materials for another world," it was the trees and plants, which reminded hint of boyhood, that yielded him pleasure. " This day's journey I shall always remember, for it reminded me of home, the days of any boyhood, my mother, and the happiest of varied recollections. It was riot, however, the effect of the prospects, for they were unlike those amongst the Welsh hills, but it was because I recognized a great number of • trees and flowers common there,—such as the fir, the oak, the apricot, the pear, the cherry, together with wild roses, raspberries, strawberries, thistles, dande- lions, nettles, -daisies, and many others. There was, too, an indescribable some- thing in the breeze, which brought back a comparative similtuity of tbelings.

I shall never forget this day."

That evening, to "complete the joy" of himself and his military companions, they were obliged " to light a fire;" and when they reached the limit of the eternal snows, the Indian dignity vanished with its climate, and the authorities pelted each other with snow- balls, to the "great amusement [amazement ? ] of the servants, and the author's son," born in India.

Major LLOYD, though he reached the Bnorendo Pass, was only an amateur traveller. To appreciate the hardships of a tour in the Himalaya, we must turn to the pages of Mr. GERARD—a medi- cal officer of the Company, who spent his life in the exploration of the geography of these regions, and died prematurely, worn out by his -exertions.

"The wind blew furiously as I approached the crest, and the rain by this

• time bad soaked us quite through ; but there was no getting over our troubles sooner, had our safety depended on it. The smallest attempt to make an effort threw us back. The extreme labour we had in getting up the last 500 feet cannot be described. Anxiety and slight sickness depriving us of using our arms when inclined to break off a chip of rock by the blow of a hammer ; respiration was free, but insqieient; our limbs could scarcelv support us, and the features collapsed as if precursors of is fever. Long fasting, previous fatigue, and eagerness in the object of my tour, altogether may bare had some effect in regard to myself; but the people who attended me, young, active, and robust, selected for the purpose, and having nothing to burden them, were so far in the rear, that had 1 wished to make a barometrical observation I must have waited a quarter of an hour. They were even more helpless than myself.

"I found the tent pitched on the west side of the Pass, fifteen feet above it. The people in a miserable condition, hat with their usual provoking subs mission, they sat exposed to wind and rain rather than make any exertion to kindle a fire. I lot my temper, but I received a lesson which I shall never forget, and I have no doubt that one of a feller habit of body would sink under the effects of apoplectic suffusion. The blood forsakes the extremities, and the pressure on the surface being so much diminished under the thin air, rushes into the head and produces giddiness. I felt cold and uncomfortable, and de- termined to take a dram, but I was treated with vinegar, the only liquor brought from lion. I therelere put up the barometer, runt went to bed at five o'clock. Yon who have passed. a night nt 15.000 feet, know what it is, but you do not know all. A. party may enjoy the absolute misery or a change, and each derive some satisfaction from the misfortunes of the other, when all are equally wretched ; but the scene has no such charms to a solitary tra- veller, and no fitmiliar tongue echoes back the lamentation. At sunset it faired for a few minutes, aid the thermometer was 41 deg., but the rain began twain, and the wind rose. As many of the people as could find room were

sheltered in the tent, and the night came worse than the day. It blew with unusual force, and the tent creaked like an old basket. I suffered from head- ache, and every one hall some complaint. At nine &clod; a dreadful crash took place. It was like it burst or the loudest thunder over our heads, and fiir some time it„,ras doubtful that we had escaped, till we caught the hollow sound of

II mass of snow that had broken loose and slipped into the (lull. I smoked cigars but had no appetite for food. A bou t midnight another avalanche occurred, so near to us that we apprehended it was only the first crumbling of a large mass at the foot of which we are. Morning crane WIIIIOUIMISII/IIMIle We will pass over the mountains with Captain GERA RD into Thi- bet, to close with a picture of a Tartar's winter-costume, and a specimen of Tartar porters.

"The road from this, yid Shealkhur to Ludak, crosses over several very lofty ridges; yet it is travelled throughout the whole winter, and is never im- passible bleon account of the snow. I heard such frightful accounts of the Severity of the frost, that I was desirous of seeing how the people clothed themselves ; and next morning Putce Ram came to me attired in his winter dress. This was a garment of sheep-skin with sleeves ; the fleecy side in- wards, and the exterior covered over with sooklat (blanket); trousers of the same, and long woollen stockings ; above them boots, with a leather shoe stuffed for two inches with wool; gloves of thick flannel reaching above the elbows. In addition to all this, he had a blanket round his waist, another over his shoulders, and a shawl wrapped about his head and face. Such, he said, was the garb of a traveller in the winter season ; and that he himself was always accompanied by a mule-load of blankets, and another dress similar to the above, which were 11 required at night when they were obliged to repose upon the snow.

'I had ten days' supplies ready, and I might have got more grain had I Waited longer. 1 was anxious, however, to set off for Speetee, so I told our friend Putce Ram that I might be detained fifteen or twenty days, by a fall of' snow or other circumstances, and I asked his advice : he replied, 'Never fear ; yll equip you for a journey of thirty or forty days, and make a real Tartar of you.' I told him to be quick, and he said he would have every thing ready in the evening* I doubted LA words, but to my surprise he returned about sun- set with large flock of sheep, exclaiming, this is the way we Tartars travel. He bade me dismiss the porters I had to carry the grain, who might return by the route of the Sutluj, where they were sure to be supplied with provisions. Iaccordingly did so, and he said the plan was to load the sheep with the grain, and when it was finished, the sheep were to be killed and eaten."