15 JUNE 1985, Page 40

Barbara Cartland

In the summer, men always want to eat out of doors because they spend most of their days working in offices with air-condition- ing and fluorescent lighting. Unfortunate- ly, it's very difficult in England, and the French, who consider food an ART, do not wish to share it with wasps and mosquitoes or sharp winds. My favourite summer restaurant is Les Auberges de Noyes near Arles in Provence. A garden of ancient trees which give shade to every table, stone fountains and a magnificent view are the background for two stars and three knives and forks in Michelin — underrated in my opinion. My son thoroughly enjoys M. Famille Lalleman's speciality of huftres gratinees au Chtiteauneuf du Pape, while I appreciate his gratin de fruits rouges. As a château hotel I find it one of the quietest and most comfortable in France.