15 JUNE 1985, Page 40

Beryl Bainbridge

This is not particularly a summery res- taurant, and all I'm saying is that it's within staggering distance of the Camden Town urinals. The decor is modest, sort of Corfu Town on a dusty afternoon; some months back a lot of the ceiling fell down. A group of writers meet there for lunch on the last Wednesday in each month. Order a little of everything on the menu — stuffed vine leaves, taramasalata etc. I always have a bowl of roast potatoes. The food is quite indescribable. A party of 30 should get enough food on their plates, and, more important, enough drink in their glasses for under £110. If you intend to visit the loo it's best to take wellies.