15 JUNE 1985, Page 40

Nicholas Coleridge

Ziani's Italian restaurant in Radnor Walk, SW3, is a very good place to eat outside, though there are hazards. Until six months ago Ziani's was under another manage- ment and was known as San Quintino. San Quintino was not at all a delicious res- taurant but I went a lot when I lived in Radnor Walk. There were always six or seven tables on the pavement during the summer and it was fun to lunch in searing Chelsea heat. Then the house opposite San Quintino was bought by new people, an accountant I understand, who seems not to have noticed until too late that his home faced a restaurant. Several times he took the place to court, trying to prevent the tables from being put outside. Fortunately a petition of residents, led by Sir John Betjeman, saved the day. Ziani's is much more popular than San Quintino so the neighbours are complaining again. Last week they played loud music, placing speakers in their windowboxes, to spoil people's lunch. Unluckily for them, Ziani's patrons quite like loud music; it lends the street a carnival air. The food at Ziani's is fresh and good. The manager, Roberto, is infinitely obliging. Radnor Walk is not a busy street so the nuisance from traffic is less than you might expect. Ziani's also has a particularly well designed menu; the typography is admirable and there are no vertical rules whatsoever.