14 MAY 1942, Page 10

MARGINAL COMMENT

By HAROLD NICOLSON

LORD WOOLTON, on Tuesday afternoon, informed the House of Lords of the Order issued by the Ministry of Food on the subject of luxury feeding. He and Major Lloyd George were faced in this matter with a problem in political sincerity : they have dealt with it in that spirit of solid good sense which has characterised all their actions. To less stalwart minds it might have been a temptation to satisfy the public suspicion of gluttony on the part of the rich by restricting the price of food while allowing luxury restaurants unrestricted scope in the way of overhead charges. Such an evasion of responsibility would not merely have been deceptive, but would have afforded irresistible temptations to the black market. They have faced the fact that there was no alternative between abolishing all luxury restaurants or admitting that the prices charged in such establishments are related not so much to meat or fish as to cleanliness, service, entertainment, amenities, company and cooking. They have not ignored the qualitative element. But they have had the courage to fix a price for " house- charges " which, while curbing extravagance, recognises that a qualitative aspect does in fact exist. Our catering by this wise order is placed upon a footing analogous to that of the entertainment industry. Nobody really resents the circumstance that prices in theatres and cinemas are varied according to the comfort provided. If a man wishes to pay 8s. 6d. for a stall he does not arouse rage and jealousy among those who wish only to pay is. sod. And why? Because the fare provided is identical for each ; the only difference is that the " soft " people have a more comfortable seat than those who are ready to absorb their films while sitting " hard." And we must also recognise that the luxury restaurants, in accepting Lord Woolton's ruling, have behaved with public spirit. But now that we arc about to impose Lycurgus broth and Woolton pie upon the rich, it is about time we took some steps to instruct less lavish eaters that there is no need why they also should not learn that cooking is an art which can be acquired.