SPECTATOR WINE CLUB

Interesting, unusual and worth trying

Auberon Waugh

The first offer from Percy Fox & Co. in the wine club's 12-year history follows one of the most enthusiastic tastings I can remember. The prices were generous when we agreed them in April. In September, unchanged, they are princely.

We start with what was a new taste for all of us. The region of Tokay, in north-east Hungary, is famous for its sweet wines, of course, all made from the furmint grape. This is the dry variety made on the Dis- znoko Estate('), classified as first growth since the 17th century. At a mere £3.81, it comes over as a strong (in fact 13D white Burgundy-style drink with intimations of honey and a slightly astringent finish which makes it more suitable with food. An inter- esting, unusual taste, which should be tried.

Next a Chilean sauvignon(2) from vines in the Lontue Valley which average around 40 years of age. It advertises itself, rather oddly, as possessing 'touches of asparagus followed by white peach on the palate'. None of us found either, but we found a nice and easy wine which improved after a strong herbal, grassy smell — a refreshing and honest wine which everyone will enjoy at £4.02 the bottle.

After Hungary and Chile a small hop to western Australia for another completely new taste, at any rate in my experience. The verdelho grape, originally Portuguese and mostly associated with Madeira, has produced an excellent table wine(3) in the hotter regions of western Australia — aro- matic, slightly lemony, with a most unusual and delicious taste. The year 1993 was exceptional. The panel did not judge the 1994 quite good enough for a follow-on, so we are left with only 50 cases of this won- derfully clean and honest wine with its mild tropical fruit. Those wanting it would be well advised to take my word and go for the case, rather than gamble on being able to re-order from the sample case.

For our first red(4) we return to Chile's Lontue Valley, with its commendably ancient vines. The Malbec is a funny grape, known by many names, chiefly cultivated nowadays in the Cahors region of western France and Argentina. It was news to me that it was planted in Chile. The wine has a plummy colour and taste, touch of dande- lion milk in the finish, not unrefreshing in its effect, improved noticeably in the glass and on second tasting, when a rubbery ele- ment disappeared entirely. Nobody can possibly complain of the price at £3.87.

Next a nice young claret, Michel Lynch 1992(5), produced, as its name hints, by J-M Cazes of Lynch Bages. Those who like the young claret taste should go for it at £4.75. Deep red colour, no tannin, everybody liked it. Won't keep or improve, should be drunk. Excellent, simple accompaniment to unpretentious food, as full and fruity as you could possibly expect for the money. Although it has been English-owned (by the Gilbeys) for 120 years, I had never tast- ed Château Loudenne, the cm bourgeois Medoc, and knew it only from wine mer- chants' price lists, until coming across this 1990(6). Perhaps I have a peculiar affinity for these 1990s, but it struck me as a revela- tion. The more I drank, the more over- whelmed I was by its style and distinction, with promise of even greater complexity and deliciousness. I think the proprietors, who back their 1988 for immediate drink- ing and their 1989 for excellence, have made a serious under-estimation of their 1990. At £7.73 it strikes me as given away. This wine will be the recipient of my heavi- est investment in September, but all the wines are interesting, unusual and worth trying.

Finally, I add as a sweetener a bottle of ten-year-old tawny(7), which struck the whole panel as so delicious that they cheered it at the end of the day. I am a great believer in these ten-year-old tawnies as the best available drink before you hit the named vintages — much better than the late bottled vintages which have emerged as the poor man's vintage port. Delaforce's His Eminence's Choice, at £9.23, is a brilliant drink at any hour of the day or night, nutty with masses of fruit and a 'high port' smell, not too dry, with a pret- ty, silly label. I am offering it in cases of six because I think that is how most people will prefer to approach it.

The mixed case, which contains one bot- tle only of the Loudenne and the port, two bottles of everything else, works out at only £5 and a penny halfpenny the bottle. I think it is a lovely offer.

ORDER FORM SPECTATOR WINE CLUB c/o Percy Fox & Co. lemplefields House, River Way, Harlow, Essex CM20 2EA Tel: (0171) 493 6174 Fax: (01279) 633780

Price No. Value

White

Dry Furmint 1993, Tokaji Domaine

Disznoko 12 Bots. £45.76

Sauvignon Blanc 1994, La Fortuna 12 Bots £48.29

Verdelho, Gold Reserve 1993, Houghton 12 Bots. £61.66 Red 4. Malbec 1994, La Fortuna 12 Bots. £46.53

Michel Lynch 1992, Bordeaux Rouge 12 Bots. £57.05

Chateau Loudenne, 1990 12 Bots. £92.75

His Eminence's Choice, Delaforce

Ten-Year-Old Tawny 6 Bots. £55.39 Mixed 8.

Two of each of nos 1-5; one of

each of nos 6&7 12 hots. £60.18

TOTAL (Cheque enclosed)

From: Delivery address, if different: NAME NAME ADDRESS ADDRESS POSTCODE POSTCODE ACCESS/VISA NO. EXPIRY DATE SIGNATURE Prices include VAT and delivery on the British mainland. Payment should be made either by cheque made out to the Spectator Wine Club or by Access/Visa order, which may be telephoned or faxed.

This offer, which is subject to availability, closes on 31 October 1995.