Ulster

Travel Notes

NORTHERN IRELAND is best known, perhaps, for its beauty-spots and its historical associa- tions, but many visitors return to Ulster in later years feeling that they have not yet found the best of it. Ulster is like that ; it satisfies, yet leaves one eager for more, and still more. It matters little where the visitor goes, provided he has imagination and keeps his ears open. It does not really matter whether the tales he hears are true ; what does matter is that he will, by listening to local folk lore, capture some of the magic atmosphere of Northern Ireland.- Go into the country and encourage the people to talk • then you will begin to understand what Ulster means to the Ulster- man, and realise some of the things which have gone to the making of his fierce, almost elemental, love for the country where his ancestors fought and died.

The visitor stands amazed at the an- tiquity by which he is encompassed. Even archaeologists cannot tell us the age of Armagh. The city is packed with stories and legends from the time when Queen Maha traced with her brooch Emhain Maha, to later years when the O'Neills and O'Donnells defeated the British troops and routed them, killing their General, Marshall Bagenal. The Protestant Cathedral at Armagh—said to be the oldest church in Northern Ireland still in use—is built upon the site where in 445, we are told St. Patrick built his first cathedral. Later, Emhain Malta became the home of the Red Branch Knights. In Dublin is preserved the " Book of Armagh " which contains the Confession of St. Patrick. Downpatrick is another place rich in historical and legendary associations. Here, beneath a great slab of unhewn Mourne granite, is the alleged burial place of Ireland's Patron Saint ; and here, also, are many interesting monuments, such as the stone circle at Ballyalton, a larger one at Ballynoe, and the Lough Money dolmen.

An excellent handbook may be obtained free of charge from The Ulster Tourist Development Association, Ltd., 6 Royal At-enue, Belfast.

Continental Tours The various Travel Agencies are offering plenty of variety in the matter of summer tours on the Continent. Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son have a Grand Tour of Central Europe visiting Germany, Czechoslovakia, Austria and Hungary, 15 days for 26 guineas ; departures August 8th and 22nd. Another tour, to Soviet Russia leaves London on July 25th and August 22nd, visiting Berlin, Riga, Leningrad, Moscow and Warsaw : 16 days, 40 guineas. Glenton Tours, Ltd., have a 23 day tour of Spain at 45 guineas; sixteen days visiting Engadine, Dolomites and Tyrol at 31 guineas ; Prague, Vienna, Budapest, &c. 16 days for 31 guineas. Anglo-Continental Tours, Ltd., have a Spain, Gibraltar, Africa Tour, which occupies 18 days, for 324 and 264 guineas : departures August 15th and September 19th. Modern Touring, Ltd., announce Luxury Coach (Continued on page 115.) (Continued from page 114.) Tours to Norway and Sweden, 28 days for £49; 17 days in the Dolomites for £32, the Chateau Country and Brittany, 14 days for £27 ; Ireland, 18 days for £37 ; Spain, 28 days for £49. Messrs. Dean and Dawson offer a Tour of Scandinavia at 24 guineas, and escorted Tour of Spain at 33k guineas, also many shorter tours to Lucerne, Riviera, Austria, Belgium, &c. The Yugoslav Travel Bureau offer 16 days in the Slovenian Alps at 12 guineas. Messrs. Hickie, Borman and Grant announce a Train Cruise to Budapest visiting Cologne, Salzburg, Vienna, Prague, Munich, Nuremberg, and Brussels. Sixteen days for 27 guineas. Luxury Land Cruises, Ltd., has a 28 day Tour of Spain, starting on September 26th, a 25 day Tour of Yugoslavia and Hungary starting on September 5th, and another to Switzer. land and the Tyrol on August 1st and 15th, with later ones in September. The Waldorf Travel Service have a Motor Tour of Yugo- slavia and the Dalmatian Coast leaving on August 29th. The tour occupies three weeks and costs £27. The same firm have many cheaper tours to Germany, Rhino to Riviera, Lake Constance, the Swiss Alps, &c. Intourist, Ltd., announce Cruise Tours to Soviet Russia ; from London and back to London, five days on board each way. The tour may be of two or three weeks duration, the former costing from £17, the latter from £22. They also offer Escorted Overland Tours in co-operation with Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son. Particulars and book- lets of all these tours may be obtained, gratis, by any reader of The Spectator from the offices concerned.

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A new Guide which has been sent to me deserves mention for two admirable qualities ; it is full of practical information, and it is as up-to-date as any guide can be. The 1936 edition contains more than one thousand pages, yet is small enough to carry in the pocket of an overcoat. Twenty-six European countries are dealt with in an entertaining manner by 26 Continental authors, and the book contains hints and suggestions of a kind that will be welceme to most travellers. For instance, the new regulations in Germany are often a source of worry to visitors. Here are some of the headings for Germany : " Problems of German Currency ; Routes to Germany ; The Rhineland ; Further towns to be visited ; Youth Hostels ; No need to know German ; Golf ; The Olympiad ; Other events of the Olympiad ; Important events of the summer, 1936 ; What clothes to take ; The Journey ; At the Frontier ; Customs and Tobacco ; Uniforms ; Hotels , Police, Tips," &c. An appendix contains brief vocabularies in French, German, Italian, Spanish and Russian. The price is 6s. 6d., and the publisher is W. Aldor, 4-6 Bucknall Street, London, W.C.2.

August Cruises Aug. 15 AEANDORA STAR (16,000 tons). From London. Oslo, Gotenburg, Copenhagen, Viaby, Stock- holm, Helsiaglors, Rotterdam. 20 days. 31 gas.

„ 15 METEOR (4.000 tons). Bergen, Gudvangen, Balestrand, 3folde, Aandalsnes, Merok, Bergen. 14 days. 22 gns.

„ 15 Awe (4,000 tons). From Liverpool. Lisbon, Madeira, Las Patinas, Santa Cruz, La Palma, Orotava. 22 days. 23 gas.

15 CITY OF NAGPUR (10,000 tons). Christiansand and Oslo. 8 days. £6. From Hull.

15 VOLTAIRE (13,248 tons). From Southampton. Malaga, Patina, Ceuta. 13 days. 16 gas. 22 STRATHAIRD (22,500 tons). From Southamp- ton. Malta, Port Said, Jaffa, Haifa, Algiers, Lisbon. 20 days. £20.

„ 22 Crry OF NAOPUR (10,138 tons). From Hull. Christiansand, Oslo. 6 days. £8.

„ 22 ORONTES (20,000 tons). From Southampton. Lisbon, Constantinople, Athens, Casablanca.

- 21 days. 36 gas. „ 22 LANCASTRIA (17,000 tons). From Liverpool. Lisbon, Casablanca, Las Palmas, Madeira. 13 days. £16. „ 22 STRATHMORE (23,500 tons). From Southamp- ton. Malta, Port Said, Haifa, Jaffa, Algiers, Lisbon. 20 days. From £20. „ 27 BALTROVER (4,656 tons). From London. Danzig and Gdynia. 11 days. £12. • 29 METEOR (4,000 tons). From Newcastle. Baleatrand, Flaertand, Gudvangen, Laerdal, Bergen. 7 days. £12 10s. ,, 29 Svasvintivza (22,500 tons). From London. Madeira, Casablanca, Gibraltar, Lisbon, Bordeaux. 13 days. From £12.

29 CITY OF NAGFOR (10,138 tons). From Hull. Christiansand and Oslo. 8 days.

„ 29 VICEROY OF Piaa (20,000 tons). From Southampton. Bizerta, Malta, Istanbul, Athens, Algiers, Lisbon- 21 days- 36 gns.