T his month we have a fascinating clutch of wines for
summer drinking from the enterprising merchant Hedley Wright, All are discounted, some rather generously. They come from five countries, and I think they illustrate the amazing progress that's been made recently in creating terrific wines at good prices around the world.
The Montes Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2003(1) from Aurelio Montes's celebrated estates in Chile spends some time in American oak, giving it the rounded flavour we would associate with a classic New World SB such as, say, Mondavi's Fume Blanc. It comes from the south of Chile, where the climate is cool and closer to that of New Zealand. Reduced by more than 12 per cent to £5.49.
There's 50p off this fine, crisp, fruity Alsace wine, from the Caves de Turckheim Pinot Blanc 2002(2). It's made by the adventurous and self-assured co-op in Turckheim, and for those who love the aromas of Alsace wines and that heady voluptuousness, this is an excellent way to enjoy it at also a very reasonable £5.49. Terrific party drinking.
Am I being mean and grouchy when I say that it is possible to have too much salmon in summer? You go to someone's house, you're grateful that they've taken so much trouble, but there is the whole fish, pink and flat, slices of cucumber along its length, maybe some mayonnaise piped along the top, and you think, well, I enjoyed salmon twice yesterday and at that buffet on Thursday, and three times last weekend, and why on earth aren't we sometimes allowed slices of tender roast beef or thin rare lamb cutlets when the temperature goes above average in Britain (57 degrees)? The Anselmi San Vincenzo 2003(3) is a perfect way of diverting salmon rage. It will slide down sublimely with fish, being a floral, fresh, fruity, nutty, intense yet subtle wine — proof that Italian whites, which were once a tiny bit dull and flavourless compared with the reds, are now progressing at speed. This is a luxurious wine, and it's reduced by a whopping £1.20 to £7.79.
The smaller wine areas of Spain, such as Castilla y Leon, are these days some of the most exciting regions in the world. This Alaia 2000(4) is, like most Spanish reds, made from Tempranillo but it has a dash of the almost unknown local grape Prieto Picudo, and that beefs it up a little. I don't see how they can do a wine so full and fleshy and gorgeous and gluggable for just £5.49, but amazingly they can — at another 10 per cent discount.
Back to Aurelio Montes in Chile, and his Malbec 2002(5). Malbec, now almost
only grown in France as Cahors, is a grape that produces a deep, rich, dark, musky, fruity, smoky, fleshy drop, and is increasingly fashionable in the kind of bars where footballers take their girlfriends. Don't let that put you off. This is terrific, and stunning value at a 1 (17 per cent) discount, or £5.99 a bottle. Expect to pay £20 or more in posh restaurants.
Finally, earlier this year I was embarrassed when our offer of Château Musar was so successful that our merchants had to send to Lebanon for fresh supplies. Apologies again. But the Bekaa Valley produces other superb wines, and the Massaya Classic 2002(6) is one. The maker, Sami Ghosen, decided after the civil war that he needed expert help to make first-rate wine, so he recruited an amazing team of French experts, including Dominic Hebrard from Cheval Blanc, and the Bruniers from Vieux Telegraph, one of the greatest of all Chateauneuf-du-Papes. The resulting wine is complex and spicy, velvety and fruit-filled. Some find cherries, blackcurrants, brambles and blueberries. You will love it. I did. Another 50p discount brings it down to £7.49.
Finally, outside the sample case, is the vibrant Italian, strawberryand cherryflavoured A-Z rose(7) from the Veneto, which is perfect for summer drinking, and reduced by Lito just £4.99. Prices include VAT and delivery is free.
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